Resource Extraction
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Last updated: 1 Aug 2024 at 09:00

Rethinking Raw Material Extraction

Introduction

Fashion, once revered for its innovation and creativity, is now facing scrutiny for its environmental and social impacts. One of the critical areas where the influence of all involved is paramount is in the selection and extraction of raw materials. From the cultivation of fibres to the harvesting of crops, every step in the process holds the potential for both environmental harm and positive transformation across the value chain. From designers and fabric producers to retailers and recyclers, each player has a role to play in reshaping raw material extraction practices. In this guide, we will explore the challenges and opportunities associated with sustainable raw material extraction, addressing the specific needs and interests of diverse stakeholders within the fashion ecosystem.

Favour Regenerative Agricultural Sources

Regenerative agriculture is a holistic approach that prioritises soil health, biodiversity, and ecosystem restoration. This practice goes beyond sustainability, aiming to restore and enhance natural systems. Key techniques include:

Recognise the Power of Indigenous Knowledge

Indigenous communities have stewarded their lands for thousands of years, developing intricate knowledge systems that balance human needs with environmental stewardship. Incorporating indigenous knowledge into raw material extraction practices offers several benefits:

Embrace Biomaterials and Recycled Content

Traditional raw materials, such as conventional cotton and synthetic fibres, pose significant environmental challenges throughout their lifecycle. As fabric producers, investing in biomaterials derived from renewable sources offers a path towards sustainability. Organic cotton, hemp, and bamboo present eco-friendly alternatives that reduce reliance on finite resources and minimise environmental impact. Likewise, integrating recycled content into fabrics supports circularity, reducing waste and conserving resources.

Fashion brands and retailers can drive demand for sustainable materials by incorporating them into their collections and educating consumers about their benefits. By embracing biomaterials and recycled content, stakeholders across the value chain can align with consumer preferences for environmentally friendly products while reducing their ecological footprint.

Furthermore, integrating recycled content into fabrics is instrumental in closing the loop on fashion's linear production model. Recycled polyester, made from post-consumer plastic bottles, diverts waste from landfills and conserves energy compared to virgin polyester production. Similarly, regenerated fibres, such as Tencel, or Econyl®utilise discarded materials like wood pulp or nylon waste, offering a sustainable solution to resource depletion.

Prioritise Supply Chain Traceability and Transparency

Transparency is the cornerstone of ethical and sustainable fashion, and it is imperative to have a thorough understanding of supply chains and the origins of raw materials. Implementing traceability mechanisms, using Implementing traceability technologies, such as blockchain or RFID tagging, enables real-time monitoring and verification of materials' origins and processing methods. And the journey of materials from source to finished product.

Transparency is also crucial for building trust and accountability within the fashion industry. Designers and brands must work closely with suppliers to ensure transparency throughout the supply chain, from raw material extraction to garment production.

Suppliers and fabric producers play a vital role in providing accurate information about the sustainability credentials of their materials. By prioritising supply chain traceability, stakeholders can address concerns related to labor rights, environmental impact, and product authenticity. Transparency builds consumer confidence and strengthens brand reputation, driving demand for ethically sourced and sustainably produced fashion.

Opt for Certified Materials

Certifications play a crucial role in verifying the sustainability credentials of raw materials. The Global Organic Textiles Standard (GOTS), for example, certifies organic fibres based on strict environmental and social criteria, encompassing the entire supply chain from field to finished product. Similarly, certifications like the Forest Stewardship Council (FSC) ensure responsible forestry practices for wood-based materials.

By opting for certified materials, designers can mitigate the environmental and social impacts associated with conventional production methods. These certifications provide assurance to consumers and stakeholders that our garments meet stringent sustainability standards, fostering accountability and transparency within the industry.

Fashion brands and retailers can leverage certified materials to differentiate their products in the marketplace and appeal to conscientious consumers. By prioritising certified materials, stakeholders signal their commitment to ethical and sustainable practices, driving industry-wide adoption and creating market demand for responsibly sourced fashion.

Mitigate Environmental Impacts

Raw material extraction often carries significant environmental risks, including habitat destruction, water pollution, and greenhouse gas emissions. Addressing these impacts requires collaboration and innovation across the fashion value chain and adoption of practices that prioritise environmental stewardship and resource efficiency.

Designers and fabric producers can explore alternative materials and production methods that minimise environmental harm. For instance, innovations in biofabrication , allow for the production of materials like lab-grown leather or silk without the need for animal agriculture, thereby reducing the environmental footprint of fashion. By investing in sustainable practices, stakeholders can reduce their carbon footprint and preserve natural resources for future generations.

Additionally, recyclers and those involved in secondary markets play a critical role in closing the loop on fashion's linear production model. By collecting and repurposing used garments, these stakeholders extend the lifespan of materials, reducing waste and promoting circularity within the industry.

Conclusion

The transition to sustainable raw material extraction requires collective action and collaboration across the fashion value chain. From designers and fabric producers to brands, retailers, and recyclers, each stakeholder has a role to play in driving positive change.

By embracing biomaterials, prioritising supply chain transparency, opting for certified materials, and mitigating environmental impacts, stakeholders can contribute to a more sustainable and ethical fashion industry. Together, everyone in the fashion value chain including designers, people in the supply chain, fibre and fabric producers, fashion brands, retailers, marketers, recyclers, and those involved in secondary markets can redefine the future of fashion, creating a greener, fairer, and more resilient ecosystem for all.

Relevant policies

EU Circular Economy Action Plan 1 & 2: The EU Circular Economy Action Plan 1, launched in 2015, set the foundation for transforming the European economy from a linear to a circular model. This initial plan focused on closing the loop of product lifecycles through greater recycling and re-use, benefiting both the environment and the economy. Key measures included actions to address waste management, product design, and fostering markets for secondary raw materials. The plan targeted various sectors, including plastics, food waste, and critical raw materials, aiming to boost competitiveness, create jobs, and generate sustainable growth. Building on the successes of the first, the EU Circular Economy Action Plan 2, introduced in 2020, aims to accelerate the transition with a more comprehensive and ambitious approach. This updated plan emphasises sustainable product design, reduction of waste, and empowerment of consumers. It includes measures to ensure that products placed on the EU market are designed to last longer, are easier to reuse, repair, and recycle, and incorporate as much recycled material as possible. Key sectors such as electronics, textiles, and construction are particularly targeted, with the goal of doubling the EU's circular material use rate by 2030 and significantly reducing the environmental footprint of EU consumption.

EU Strategy for Sustainable and Circular Textiles: The EU Strategy for Sustainable and Circular Textiles is an initiative aimed at transforming the textile industry to become more sustainable, circular, and resource-efficient. This strategy, part of the broader European Green Deal and Circular Economy Action Plan, focuses on reducing the environmental impact of textiles throughout their lifecycle, from production to end-of-life. It addresses key issues such as waste generation, resource consumption, and pollution associated with the textile sector.

Key components of the strategy include promoting the design of textiles for durability, repairability, and recyclability. It also emphasises the importance of using sustainable and recycled materials, improving waste management, and fostering innovative business models like reuse and recycling. The strategy aims to ensure that textile products placed on the EU market are long-lasting and recyclable, and produced in an environmentally friendly manner. By setting clear guidelines and supporting research and innovation, the EU Strategy for Sustainable and Circular Textiles seeks to drive the industry towards greater sustainability and circularity, benefiting both the environment and the economy.

EU Waste Framework Directive: The Waste Framework Directive (Directive 2008/98/EC) is a cornerstone of the EU's waste management policy, aiming to protect the environment and human health by emphasising waste prevention, recycling, and resource recovery. This directive sets the basic concepts and definitions related to waste management, including the "waste hierarchy" which prioritises waste prevention, followed by reuse, recycling, recovery, and disposal as the last resort. By promoting these principles, the directive seeks to reduce the environmental and economic impacts of waste.

Under the Waste Framework Directive, member states are required to take appropriate measures to minimise the generation of waste and enhance the efficiency of resource use. This includes the development of waste management plans and waste prevention programs. The directive also introduces the concept of "extended producer responsibility", holding producers accountable for the entire lifecycle of their products, including take-back, recycling, and final disposal. These measures are designed to foster innovation in waste management practices, drive circular economy initiatives, and move towards a more sustainable and resource-efficient Europe.

A 2023 Amendment to the Waste Framework Directive requires that by January 1, 2025, EU Member States must implement separate textile collection systems. To achieve this, significant investments are needed to enhance infrastructure and develop new technologies for collection, sorting, reuse, and recycling of textiles.

Related to this, the European Commission proposes introducing mandatory Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) schemes for textiles across all EU countries. EPR schemes will require producers to manage the entire lifecycle of their products, particularly at the end of their life. Producers will contribute financially based on how circular and environmentally friendly their products are, a system known as "eco-modulation." This proposal aims to drive research and innovation in textile recycling technologies, support social enterprises involved in textile management, and encourage producers to design more sustainable, circular products.

Relevant standards

ISO 14001 Environmental Management System: ISO 14001 is an international standard for environmental management systems, providing a framework for organisations to minimise their environmental impact, comply with regulations, and continuously improve their environmental performance.

ISO 26000 Social Responsibility: ISO 26000 provides guidance on social responsibility, including labour practices, human rights, and community engagement. While not specific to the textile industry, it is relevant for fashion brands seeking to address social issues in their supply chains.

ISO 5157 Textiles — Environmental aspects — Vocabulary: ISO 5157:2023 is a comprehensive standard established to ensure the quality, safety, and sustainability of products across various industries. This standard outlines the requirements for environmental management systems, focusing on reducing environmental impacts, enhancing resource efficiency, and promoting sustainable practices. By adhering to EN ISO 5157:2023, organisations can demonstrate their commitment to environmental responsibility and improve their operational performance. The standard provides a framework for identifying and controlling environmental aspects, setting objectives, and implementing policies that align with global sustainability goals. It also includes guidelines for continuous improvement and compliance with relevant legal and regulatory requirements. EN ISO 5157:2023 helps businesses minimise their environmental footprint and contribute to a greener economy.

ISO 59000 Family of Standards: The ISO 59000 family of standards focuses on establishing a comprehensive framework for implementing and managing circular economy practices and are located within ISO/TC323. These standards provide guidelines on key areas such as terminology, principles, action planning, performance evaluation, and continuous improvement. The primary aim is to harmonise the understanding and application of circular economy concepts, supporting organisations in achieving sustainable development goals. The first three standards were published in 2024 and are ISO 59004 (key terminology, framework and principles), ISO 59010 (guidance on business models and value networks related to circularity), and ISO 59020 (measurement and assessment of circularity).

CEN/TC473-Circular Economy: CEN/TC 473 is the European standardisation committee focused on developing standards for the circular economy. This committee aims to create a coherent framework that supports the transition to a circular economy by setting clear and practical guidelines for industries. The standards developed by CEN/TC 473 address various aspects of circularity, including product design, resource efficiency, waste management, and the use of secondary raw materials. The work of CEN/TC 473 is crucial for ensuring that products and processes across Europe are designed to minimise environmental impact and promote sustainability. By establishing standardised methodologies and criteria, the committee helps businesses align with EU policies on circular economy and environmental protection. These standards facilitate the adoption of best practices and innovative solutions that contribute to a more sustainable and resource-efficient economy.

Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS): GOTS is a leading standard for the processing of organic fibres, including ecological and social criteria. It covers the entire textile supply chain, from harvesting of raw materials to environmentally and socially responsible manufacturing.

Bluesign® System: The Bluesign® System is a holistic approach to textile production that aims to eliminate harmful substances from the manufacturing process, ensure resource efficiency, and promote sustainable practices. It provides guidelines and tools for brands and manufacturers to improve the environmental performance of their products.

Forest Stewardship Council (FSC) Certification: FSC certification ensures that wood and wood-based products come from responsibly managed forests that meet social, environmental, and economic criteria. It is relevant for fashion brands using wood-derived materials such as viscose or lyocell.

OEKO-TEX® Standard 100: OEKO-TEX® Standard 100 is a certification system for textile products that ensures they are free from harmful substances. It focuses on consumer safety and sets limits for the use of certain chemicals in textiles, including dyes and finishes.

Cradle to Cradle Certified™: The Cradle to Cradle Products Innovation Institute certifies products based on their environmental and social performance. Their website provides information on certified materials and products, as well as resources for designers looking to incorporate circular design principles. Cradle to Cradle Certified™ is a multi-attribute certification programme that assesses products based on their environmental and social performance across five categories: material health, material re-utilisation, renewable energy and carbon management, water stewardship, and social fairness. It is relevant for brands committed to circular design principles.

More information

Textile Exchange: Textile Exchange is a global nonprofit organisation that provides resources and information on sustainable fibres and materials. Their website offers reports, standards, and guides on topics such as organic cotton, recycled polyester, and responsible wool production.

Sustainable Apparel Coalition (SAC) and the Higg Index: SAC has now been renamed Cascale and is an industry alliance working to promote sustainability in the apparel, footwear, and textile industry. Their Higg Materials Sustainability Index (Higg MSI) provides data and insights on the environmental impacts of various materials, helping designers make informed choices.The Higg Index is a suite of tools developed by SAC to measure and score the environmental and social impacts of apparel and footwear products throughout their lifecycle. It includes modules for materials, manufacturing, and product use and end-of-life.

Fashion Revolution: Fashion Revolution is a global movement advocating for transparency and sustainability in the fashion industry. Their website offers educational resources, including guides on sustainable materials and fibres, as well as reports on the environmental and social impacts of different textiles.

The Ellen MacArthur Foundation: The Ellen MacArthur Foundation is a thought leader in the circular economy space, including textiles and fashion. Their reports and publications, such as the "A New Textiles Economy" series, offer insights into sustainable material selection and circular design principles.

Textile World: Textile World is an industry publication covering news and trends in the textile and apparel sector. Their website offers articles and reports on material innovations, fibre developments, and sustainable textile production practices.

Ecotextile News: Ecotextile News is a media platform focused on sustainability in the textile industry. Their website features articles, interviews, and research reports on topics such as eco-friendly fibres, recycling technologies, and supply chain transparency.