Last updated: 1 Aug 2024 at 09:00
Designing for Circularity
Introduction
Fashion design is a cornerstone in the quest for sustainable garments, influencing every aspect of a product's lifecycle. By integrating principles of circular design, designers can change the industry, diminishing waste, extending product lifecycles, and reducing environmental footprints.
It is also important to note that retailers and brand owners play a significant role in design decisions by influencing demand and product assortment. For example, embracing sustainable design principles can prompt retailers to advocate for smaller assortments, focusing on quality over quantity. This shift not only aligns with circularity but also reduces overproduction and excess inventory, mitigating environmental impact. Collaborating with fabric producers and manufacturers is also essential; they can provide insights into material innovation, waste reduction, and supply chain transparency. Through such partnerships, designers gain access to sustainable materials and production techniques, facilitating the integration of circular design principles into their creations.
Additionally, engaging with consumers throughout the design process fosters a deeper understanding of their preferences and values, enabling designers to create garments that resonate with their desire for sustainability.
Design for Repair and Refurbishment
Embracing a repair and refurbishment mindset involves a fundamental shift in the design approach towards creating garments that are not only aesthetically pleasing but also durable and easy to maintain. Designers can incorporate various features and techniques that facilitate repair and refurbishment, ultimately extending the lifespan of the garment. For instance, reinforced seams and stitching techniques, such as flat-felled or French seams, enhance the durability of the garment, reducing the likelihood of seams unraveling or tearing. Additionally, integrating replaceable components, such as buttons, zippers, and pockets, allows consumers to easily replace damaged or worn-out parts without compromising the overall integrity of the garment.
Modular designs, where garments are composed of interchangeable modules or panels, enable users to customise and adapt their clothing to suit their evolving needs and preferences.
Prioritising durability and longevity not only benefits consumers but also contributes to a more sustainable fashion industry. By designing garments that withstand the test of time, designers empower consumers to cherish and maintain their clothing for years to come, reducing the frequency of replacements and minimising overall resource consumption. This shift towards durable and repairable fashion aligns with the principles of circularity, where products are designed to retain their value and functionality over multiple lifecycles.
Design for Disassembly
Designing for disassembly is a proactive approach that entails careful consideration of a garment's end-of-life fate from the initial stages of design. By prioritising disassembly-friendly design elements, designers can facilitate the recycling and repurposing of fashion products, thus promoting circularity within the industry. This involves not only selecting materials with recyclability in mind but also employing construction techniques that enable easy separation of components. For instance, designers can opt for materials that are easily recyclable, such as mono-material fabrics or textiles made from recycled fibres. Additionally, fasteners like snaps, hooks, and Velcro can replace permanent stitching, allowing for effortless disassembly of garments at the end of their useful life.
Again, modular design approaches, where garments are composed of detachable modules or panels, further enhance disassembly, enabling users to separate different components for recycling or reuse purposes.
By designing with disassembly in mind, designers contribute to the creation of a closed-loop system where materials are continuously regenerated and reused, minimising waste and environmental impact.
Design for Durability (Timeless Fashion)
Timeless fashion represents a departure from the transient nature of trends and seasons, instead offering garments that boast enduring style and impeccable craftsmanship. Designers play a crucial role in shaping this timeless aesthetic by focusing on classic silhouettes, premium materials, and meticulous attention to detail. Classic silhouettes, such as the tailored blazer or the little black dress, possess a timeless allure that transcends fleeting trends.
By incorporating these timeless shapes into their designs, designers create garments that retain their relevance season after season. High-quality materials further contribute to the longevity of timeless fashion, as they not only enhance the aesthetic appeal of the garment but also ensure durability and longevity. Fabrics like silk, wool, and cashmere are renowned for their luxurious feel and exceptional durability, making them ideal choices for timeless pieces.
Meticulous attention to detail is another hallmark of timeless fashion, with designers focusing on fine craftsmanship and finishes that stand the test of time. From hand-stitched seams to intricate embroidery, these thoughtful details elevate the garment and imbue it with a sense of timeless elegance. By investing in timeless designs, consumers are more likely to develop a deep emotional connection with their garments, cherishing and wearing them for years to come. This reduces the need for frequent replacements and contributes to a more sustainable approach to fashion consumption, aligning with the principles of circularity and longevity.
Reduction in Use of Materials, Parts, and Components
Simplifying garment construction and minimising the use of unnecessary materials, parts, and components are key strategies for reducing the environmental impact of fashion production. Designers wield immense influence in this regard, as they have the power to shape the design process from inception to execution. Streamlining designs involves stripping away superfluous elements and focusing on essential features that contribute to both aesthetic appeal and functionality.
By eliminating excessive embellishments, such as intricate beading or unnecessary trims, designers can reduce material waste and production complexity, thereby lowering the environmental footprint of the garment. Prioritising versatile pieces that offer maximum functionality with minimal resources further enhances sustainability.
Designers can create multi-functional garments that can be styled in various ways or adapted for different occasions, reducing the need for consumers to purchase multiple items. Additionally, opting for durable materials that withstand the test of time ensures longevity and minimises the need for frequent replacements.
Embracing simplicity and efficiency not only aligns with the principles of sustainability but also fosters creativity and innovation within the fashion industry. By reimagining design processes and embracing minimalist aesthetics, designers can play a pivotal role in shaping a more sustainable future for fashion.
Fabric Optimisation
Fabric optimisation in the design of clothing involves strategically planning the use of textiles to maximise efficiency and minimize waste. This process entails the careful selection of fabric types, sizes, and shapes to ensure that each piece is used as effectively as possible. Designers utilise advanced software to simulate and plan fabric layouts before cutting, allowing them to adjust patterns and placements to reduce offcuts. This method not only conserves materials but also lowers production costs and decreases the environmental impact associated with fabric manufacturing, such as reduced energy consumption and less chemical processing.
Minimal Seam Construction
Minimal seam construction is a design technique that involves reducing the number of seams in a garment to simplify its assembly and enhance comfort. This approach often results in smoother, cleaner lines that can offer both aesthetic and functional benefits. Fewer seams mean less potential for irritation against the skin, making garments more comfortable to wear, especially in activewear or intimate apparel. Additionally, reducing the number of seams can decrease labour and production time, thus streamlining the manufacturing process and reducing the overall carbon footprint associated with garment production.
Zero Waste Pattern Cutting
Zero waste pattern cutting is an innovative approach to fashion design that aims to eliminate fabric waste during the garment cutting process. Designers arrange patterns in such a way that all pieces fit together like a jigsaw puzzle, leaving no unused fabric. This method requires a rethinking of traditional cutting techniques and often involves more complex pattern design and planning stages. The benefits of zero waste pattern cutting are significant, leading to a reduction in the environmental impact of textile waste and promoting a more sustainable fashion industry. Designers who adopt this practice often find that it also inspires creativity, pushing them to think outside conventional design frameworks.
Conclusion
Fashion designers wield significant influence in shaping the future of the industry, and their impact extends far beyond the design studio. By prioritising sustainability at every stage of the design process, from concept development to garment production, designers can inspire positive change throughout the fashion value chain.
However, this transformation requires collaboration and commitment from all stakeholders, including fabric producers, manufacturers, brands, retailers, marketers, recyclers, and consumers. Fabric producers can innovate sustainable materials, manufacturers can adopt eco-friendly production techniques, brands and retailers can promote sustainable fashion choices, marketers can communicate the value of sustainability to consumers, recyclers can facilitate circularity, and consumers can make conscious purchasing decisions.
Together, everyone in the fashion value chain plays a critical role in driving the adoption of circular design principles and creating a more sustainable and socially conscious industry. By working collectively towards this shared goal, the industry can pave the way for a brighter and more resilient future for fashion.
Relevant policies
EU Circular Economy Action Plan 1 & 2: The EU Circular Economy Action Plan 1, launched in 2015, set the foundation for transforming the European economy from a linear to a circular model. This initial plan focused on closing the loop of product lifecycles through greater recycling and re-use, benefiting both the environment and the economy. Key measures included actions to address waste management, product design, and fostering markets for secondary raw materials. The plan targeted various sectors, including plastics, food waste, and critical raw materials, aiming to boost competitiveness, create jobs, and generate sustainable growth. Building on the successes of the first, the EU Circular Economy Action Plan 2, introduced in 2020, aims to accelerate the transition with a more comprehensive and ambitious approach. This updated plan emphasises sustainable product design, reduction of waste, and empowerment of consumers. It includes measures to ensure that products placed on the EU market are designed to last longer, are easier to reuse, repair, and recycle, and incorporate as much recycled material as possible. Key sectors such as electronics, textiles, and construction are particularly targeted, with the goal of doubling the EU's circular material use rate by 2030 and significantly reducing the environmental footprint of EU consumption.
EU Strategy for Sustainable and Circular Textiles: The EU Strategy for Sustainable and Circular Textiles is an initiative aimed at transforming the textile industry to become more sustainable, circular, and resource-efficient. This strategy, part of the broader European Green Deal and Circular Economy Action Plan, focuses on reducing the environmental impact of textiles throughout their lifecycle, from production to end-of-life. It addresses key issues such as waste generation, resource consumption, and pollution associated with the textile sector.
Key components of the strategy include promoting the design of textiles for durability, repairability, and recyclability. It also emphasises the importance of using sustainable and recycled materials, improving waste management, and fostering innovative business models like reuse and recycling. The strategy aims to ensure that textile products placed on the EU market are long-lasting and recyclable, and produced in an environmentally friendly manner. By setting clear guidelines and supporting research and innovation, the EU Strategy for Sustainable and Circular Textiles seeks to drive the industry towards greater sustainability and circularity, benefiting both the environment and the economy.
The Ecodesign for Sustainable Products Regulation (ESPR): The Ecodesign for Sustainable Products Regulation (ESPR), which came into effect on 18 July 2024, forms the foundation of the Commission's strategy for promoting environmentally sustainable and circular products. It enables the setting of performance and information conditions – known as ‘ecodesign requirements’ – for almost all categories of physical goods. Use of products can significantly impact the environment, making consumption in the EU a substantial driver of climate change and pollution. The ESPR is a key element of the 2020 Circular Economy Action Plan. It aims to help the EU meet its environmental and climate goals, double its material use circularity rate, and achieve its energy efficiency targets by 2030.
The Green Claims Directive 2024: The Green Claims Directive is an EU initiative aimed at ensuring that environmental claims made by companies about their products and services are clear, accurate, and substantiated. This directive addresses the growing issue of greenwashing, where misleading claims about environmental benefits are made. By setting strict guidelines and requiring businesses to provide verifiable evidence for their green claims, the directive seeks to enhance consumer trust and promote genuine sustainability efforts. The directive mandates that all environmental claims must be based on recognised scientific evidence and verified by independent bodies. It covers various aspects such as carbon footprint, resource efficiency, and recyclability. By fostering transparency and accountability, the Green Claims Directive supports the EU's broader goals of environmental protection and a sustainable economy.
EU Digital Product Passport (DPP): The proposed EU Digital Product Passports (DPPs), while awaiting final clarity and implementation decisions, represent a significant step forward in enhancing transparency and sustainability in the textiles and fashion industry. These passports, mandated under the Ecodesign for Sustainable Products Regulation (ESPR), are designed to provide detailed information about the entire lifecycle of textile products. By embedding digital tags or QR codes on garments, consumers, businesses, and regulators can access data on the materials used, manufacturing processes, and environmental impact.
This initiative aims to empower consumers to make more informed choices, foster sustainable practices among manufacturers, and facilitate efficient recycling and waste management processes. In the context of textiles and fashion, DPPs are particularly crucial due to the sector's considerable environmental footprint. The industry is known for high levels of resource consumption, waste production, and pollution. With DPPs, brands can demonstrate their commitment to sustainability by providing verifiable information about the sourcing and processing of materials. Moreover, these digital passports enable better traceability, ensuring that products comply with environmental standards and ethical practices. As a result, DPPs are expected to play a pivotal role in driving the EU towards its circular economy goals, reducing textile waste, and promoting a more sustainable fashion industry.
Relevant standards
ISO 14001 Environmental Management System: ISO 14001 is an international standard for environmental management systems, providing a framework for organisations to minimise their environmental impact, comply with regulations, and continuously improve their environmental performance.
ISO 26000 Social Responsibility: ISO 26000 provides guidance on social responsibility, including labour practices, human rights, and community engagement. While not specific to the textile industry, it is relevant for fashion brands seeking to address social issues in their supply chains.
ISO 5157 Textiles — Environmental aspects — Vocabulary: ISO 5157:2023 is a comprehensive standard established to ensure the quality, safety, and sustainability of products across various industries. This standard outlines the requirements for environmental management systems, focusing on reducing environmental impacts, enhancing resource efficiency, and promoting sustainable practices. By adhering to EN ISO 5157:2023, organisations can demonstrate their commitment to environmental responsibility and improve their operational performance. The standard provides a framework for identifying and controlling environmental aspects, setting objectives, and implementing policies that align with global sustainability goals. It also includes guidelines for continuous improvement and compliance with relevant legal and regulatory requirements. EN ISO 5157:2023 helps businesses minimise their environmental footprint and contribute to a greener economy.
ISO 59000 Family of Standards: The ISO 59000 family of standards focuses on establishing a comprehensive framework for implementing and managing circular economy practices and are located within ISO/TC323. These standards provide guidelines on key areas such as terminology, principles, action planning, performance evaluation, and continuous improvement. The primary aim is to harmonise the understanding and application of circular economy concepts, supporting organisations in achieving sustainable development goals. The first three standards were published in 2024 and are ISO 59004 (key terminology, framework and principles), ISO 59010 (guidance on business models and value networks related to circularity), and ISO 59020 (measurement and assessment of circularity).
CEN/CLC/JTC 10/WG 8 Method to Achieve Circular Designs of Products: CEN/CLC/JTC 10/WG 8 is a working group focused on developing methods to achieve circular designs of products. Standards are expected to be published late 2024/early 2025.
This initiative aims to provide standardised guidelines and best practices to help industries design products that are more sustainable and circular. The group's work involves creating frameworks that ensure products are designed with their entire lifecycle in mind, promoting ease of reuse, repair, and recycling. The methods developed by CEN/CLC/JTC 10/WG 8 address various aspects of product design, including material selection, manufacturing processes, and end-of-life management. By adhering to these standards, companies can reduce waste, improve resource efficiency, and support the transition to a circular economy. The working group's efforts are crucial in fostering innovation and sustainability in product design across different sectors.
CEN/TC473-Circular Economy: CEN/TC 473 is the European standardisation committee focused on developing standards for the circular economy. This committee aims to create a coherent framework that supports the transition to a circular economy by setting clear and practical guidelines for industries. The standards developed by CEN/TC 473 address various aspects of circularity, including product design, resource efficiency, waste management, and the use of secondary raw materials. The work of CEN/TC 473 is crucial for ensuring that products and processes across Europe are designed to minimise environmental impact and promote sustainability. By establishing standardised methodologies and criteria, the committee helps businesses align with EU policies on circular economy and environmental protection. These standards facilitate the adoption of best practices and innovative solutions that contribute to a more sustainable and resource-efficient economy.
Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS): GOTS is a leading standard for the processing of organic fibres, including ecological and social criteria. It covers the entire textile supply chain, from harvesting of raw materials to environmentally and socially responsible manufacturing.
Bluesign® System: The Bluesign® System is a holistic approach to textile production that aims to eliminate harmful substances from the manufacturing process, ensure resource efficiency, and promote sustainable practices. It provides guidelines and tools for brands and manufacturers to improve the environmental performance of their products.
Forest Stewardship Council (FSC) Certification: FSC certification ensures that wood and wood-based products come from responsibly managed forests that meet social, environmental, and economic criteria. It is relevant for fashion brands using wood-derived materials such as viscose or lyocell.
Cradle to Cradle Certified™: The Cradle to Cradle Products Innovation Institute certifies products based on their environmental and social performance. Their website provides information on certified materials and products, as well as resources for designers looking to incorporate circular design principles. Cradle to Cradle Certified™ is a multi-attribute certification programme that assesses products based on their environmental and social performance across five categories: material health, material re-utilisation, renewable energy and carbon management, water stewardship, and social fairness. It is relevant for brands committed to circular design principles.
More information
Textile Exchange: Textile Exchange is a global nonprofit organisation that provides resources and information on sustainable fibres and materials. Their website offers reports, standards, and guides on topics such as organic cotton, recycled polyester, and responsible wool production. Here is a link to their Circularity Companion Guide .
The Ellen MacArthur Foundation: The Ellen MacArthur Foundation is a thought leader in the circular economy space, including textiles and fashion. Their reports and publications, such as the "A New Textiles Economy" series, offer insights into sustainable material selection and circular design principles.
Fashion Positive: A pioneering initiative led by the Cradle to Cradle Products Innovation Institute, dedicated to transforming the fashion industry towards circularity and sustainability. This initiative offers a comprehensive framework and resources to guide fashion brands, designers, and manufacturers in adopting circular design principles. By embracing the Cradle to Cradle Certified™ programme and other sustainable practices, Fashion Positive empowers stakeholders to rethink traditional approaches to fashion production and consumption. Here is a link to their Circular Materials Guidelines .
WRAP and The Circular Design Working Group: A collaborative effort between WRAP (Waste and Resources Action Programme) and Textiles 2030, serves as a valuable source of information for fashion designers and stakeholders seeking guidance on circular design principles. WRAP is renowned for its expertise in waste reduction and resource efficiency, while Textiles 2030 is a UK-based initiative committed to transforming the textile industry towards a circular economy. Together, their Circular Design Working Group provides insights, tools, and best practices to help designers integrate circularity into their creative process. Here is a link to their Circular Design Toolkit .