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Last updated: 10 Jun 2025

Designing for Circularity

Introduction

Fashion design is a cornerstone in the quest for sustainable garments, influencing every aspect of a product's lifecycle. By integrating principles of circular design, designers can change the industry, diminishing waste, extending product lifecycles, and reducing environmental footprints.

It is also important to note that retailers and brand owners play a significant role in design decisions by influencing demand and product assortment. For example, embracing sustainable design principles can prompt retailers to advocate for smaller assortments, focusing on quality over quantity. This shift not only aligns with circularity but also reduces overproduction and excess inventory, mitigating environmental impact. Collaborating with fabric producers and manufacturers is also essential; they can provide insights into material innovation, waste reduction, and supply chain transparency. Through such partnerships, designers gain access to sustainable materials and production techniques, facilitating the integration of circular design principles into their creations.

Additionally, engaging with consumers throughout the design process fosters a deeper understanding of their preferences and values, enabling designers to create garments that resonate with their desire for sustainability.

Design for Repair and Refurbishment

Embracing a repair and refurbishment mindset involves a fundamental shift in the design approach towards creating garments that are not only aesthetically pleasing but also durable and easy to maintain. Designers can incorporate various features and techniques that facilitate repair and refurbishment, ultimately extending the lifespan of the garment. For instance, reinforced seams and stitching techniques, such as flat-felled or French seams, enhance the durability of the garment, reducing the likelihood of seams unraveling or tearing. Additionally, integrating replaceable components, such as buttons, zippers, and pockets, allows consumers to easily replace damaged or worn-out parts without compromising the overall integrity of the garment.

Modular designs, where garments are composed of interchangeable modules or panels, enable users to customise and adapt their clothing to suit their evolving needs and preferences.

Prioritising durability and longevity not only benefits consumers but also contributes to a more sustainable fashion industry. By designing garments that withstand the test of time, designers empower consumers to cherish and maintain their clothing for years to come, reducing the frequency of replacements and minimising overall resource consumption. This shift towards durable and repairable fashion aligns with the principles of circularity, where products are designed to retain their value and functionality over multiple lifecycles.

Design for Disassembly

Designing for disassembly is a proactive approach that entails careful consideration of a garment's end-of-life fate from the initial stages of design. By prioritising disassembly-friendly design elements, designers can facilitate the recycling and repurposing of fashion products, thus promoting circularity within the industry. This involves not only selecting materials with recyclability in mind but also employing construction techniques that enable easy separation of components. For instance, designers can opt for materials that are easily recyclable, such as mono-material fabrics or textiles made from recycled fibres. Additionally, fasteners like snaps, hooks, and Velcro can replace permanent stitching, allowing for effortless disassembly of garments at the end of their useful life.

Again, modular design approaches, where garments are composed of detachable modules or panels, further enhance disassembly, enabling users to separate different components for recycling or reuse purposes.

By designing with disassembly in mind, designers contribute to the creation of a closed-loop system where materials are continuously regenerated and reused, minimising waste and environmental impact.

Design for Durability (Timeless Fashion)

Timeless fashion represents a departure from the transient nature of trends and seasons, instead offering garments that boast enduring style and impeccable craftsmanship. Designers play a crucial role in shaping this timeless aesthetic by focusing on classic silhouettes, premium materials, and meticulous attention to detail. Classic silhouettes, such as the tailored blazer or the little black dress, possess a timeless allure that transcends fleeting trends.

By incorporating these timeless shapes into their designs, designers create garments that retain their relevance season after season. High-quality materials further contribute to the longevity of timeless fashion, as they not only enhance the aesthetic appeal of the garment but also ensure durability and longevity. Fabrics like silk, wool, and cashmere are renowned for their luxurious feel and exceptional durability, making them ideal choices for timeless pieces.

Meticulous attention to detail is another hallmark of timeless fashion, with designers focusing on fine craftsmanship and finishes that stand the test of time. From hand-stitched seams to intricate embroidery, these thoughtful details elevate the garment and imbue it with a sense of timeless elegance. By investing in timeless designs, consumers are more likely to develop a deep emotional connection with their garments, cherishing and wearing them for years to come. This reduces the need for frequent replacements and contributes to a more sustainable approach to fashion consumption, aligning with the principles of circularity and longevity.

Reduction in Use of Materials, Parts, and Components

Simplifying garment construction and minimising the use of unnecessary materials, parts, and components are key strategies for reducing the environmental impact of fashion production. Designers wield immense influence in this regard, as they have the power to shape the design process from inception to execution. Streamlining designs involves stripping away superfluous elements and focusing on essential features that contribute to both aesthetic appeal and functionality.

By eliminating excessive embellishments, such as intricate beading or unnecessary trims, designers can reduce material waste and production complexity, thereby lowering the environmental footprint of the garment. Prioritising versatile pieces that offer maximum functionality with minimal resources further enhances sustainability.

Designers can create multi-functional garments that can be styled in various ways or adapted for different occasions, reducing the need for consumers to purchase multiple items. Additionally, opting for durable materials that withstand the test of time ensures longevity and minimises the need for frequent replacements.

Embracing simplicity and efficiency not only aligns with the principles of sustainability but also fosters creativity and innovation within the fashion industry. By reimagining design processes and embracing minimalist aesthetics, designers can play a pivotal role in shaping a more sustainable future for fashion.

Fabric Optimisation

Fabric optimisation in the design of clothing involves strategically planning the use of textiles to maximise efficiency and minimize waste. This process entails the careful selection of fabric types, sizes, and shapes to ensure that each piece is used as effectively as possible. Designers utilise advanced software to simulate and plan fabric layouts before cutting, allowing them to adjust patterns and placements to reduce offcuts. This method not only conserves materials but also lowers production costs and decreases the environmental impact associated with fabric manufacturing, such as reduced energy consumption and less chemical processing.

Minimal Seam Construction

Minimal seam construction is a design technique that involves reducing the number of seams in a garment to simplify its assembly and enhance comfort. This approach often results in smoother, cleaner lines that can offer both aesthetic and functional benefits. Fewer seams mean less potential for irritation against the skin, making garments more comfortable to wear, especially in activewear or intimate apparel. Additionally, reducing the number of seams can decrease labour and production time, thus streamlining the manufacturing process and reducing the overall carbon footprint associated with garment production.

Zero Waste Pattern Cutting

Zero waste pattern cutting is an innovative approach to fashion design that aims to eliminate fabric waste during the garment cutting process. Designers arrange patterns in such a way that all pieces fit together like a jigsaw puzzle, leaving no unused fabric. This method requires a rethinking of traditional cutting techniques and often involves more complex pattern design and planning stages. The benefits of zero waste pattern cutting are significant, leading to a reduction in the environmental impact of textile waste and promoting a more sustainable fashion industry. Designers who adopt this practice often find that it also inspires creativity, pushing them to think outside conventional design frameworks.

Conclusion

Fashion designers wield significant influence in shaping the future of the industry, and their impact extends far beyond the design studio. By prioritising sustainability at every stage of the design process, from concept development to garment production, designers can inspire positive change throughout the fashion value chain.

However, this transformation requires collaboration and commitment from all stakeholders, including fabric producers, manufacturers, brands, retailers, marketers, recyclers, and consumers. Fabric producers can innovate sustainable materials, manufacturers can adopt eco-friendly production techniques, brands and retailers can promote sustainable fashion choices, marketers can communicate the value of sustainability to consumers, recyclers can facilitate circularity, and consumers can make conscious purchasing decisions.

Together, everyone in the fashion value chain plays a critical role in driving the adoption of circular design principles and creating a more sustainable and socially conscious industry. By working collectively towards this shared goal, the industry can pave the way for a brighter and more resilient future for fashion.

Clothing, fashion and textiles: policies and standards

EU Circular Economy Action Plan 1 & 2: The EU Circular Economy Action Plan 1 (CEAP 1), launched in 2015, set the foundation for transforming the European economy from a linear to a circular model. The plan introduced 54 targeted actions, including legislative proposals to revise the Waste Framework Directive, Landfill Directive, and Packaging Waste Directive. It focused on improving product design to facilitate repair and recycling, enhancing waste management systems, and developing a functioning market for secondary raw materials. Sector-specific initiatives included the EU Strategy for Plastics in a Circular Economy, which aimed to make all plastic packaging recyclable or reusable by 2030; measures to reduce food waste by setting a common EU methodology to measure food waste levels; and efforts to ensure the secure supply of critical raw materials through improved recycling and reuse.

Building on the successes of the first, the EU Circular Economy Action Plan 2 (CEAP 2), introduced in 2020 as a core component of the European Green Deal presented a more comprehensive and ambitious strategy. The CEAP 2 identified critical shortcomings in current product design, which often fail to prioritise durability, reusability, repairability, and recyclability throughout the product lifecycle. It also highlighted the lack of accessible information and affordable sustainable choices for both consumers and businesses. To overcome these obstacles and foster a truly circular economy, the CEAP 2 emphasised the need for a well-functioning internal market for sustainable products. A central pillar is the proposed Ecodesign for Sustainable Products Regulation (ESPR), which will set requirements for products to be more durable, reusable, repairable, and easier to recycle. This includes measures like digital product passports, mandatory green public procurement criteria, and a ban on the destruction of unsold durable goods. It also targets resource-intensive sectors with high circularity potential textiles with the EU Strategy for Sustainable and Circular Textiles (published in 2022).

The Green Claims Directive 2024: The Green Claims Directive is an EU initiative aimed at ensuring that environmental claims made by companies about their products and services are clear, accurate, and substantiated. This directive addresses the growing issue of greenwashing, where misleading claims about environmental benefits are made. To combat greenwashing, the directive sets strict guidelines requiring businesses to provide verifiable evidence for their environmental claims. Companies must substantiate claims using recognised scientific methods and have them verified by independent accredited bodies before making them public. They must specify the scope of claims whether they apply to the entire product, a part of it, or a specific aspect of its lifecycle. They also must undergo ex-ante verification, meaning all voluntary environmental claims must be assessed before being presented to consumers. This verification process must be completed within 30 days to ensure timely compliance. The directive covers various aspects such as carbon footprint, resource efficiency, and recyclability. Furthermore, vague or generic environmental claims such as "eco-friendly," "green," "ecological," or "environmentally friendly" without clear and prominent substantiation will be effectively banned if they cannot meet strict criteria. This directive entered into force on the 26 March 2024 and member states must now incorporate its requirements into national law by 26 September 2026. It complements the Directive to Empower Consumers for the Green Transition, which entered into force on the 27 March 2024, further strengthening consumer rights against misleading sustainability claims.

EU Waste Framework Directive: The Waste Framework Directive (Directive 2008/98/EC) is a cornerstone of the EU's waste management policy. It requires that waste be managed without endangering human health and harming the environment, without risk to water, air, soil, plants, or animals, without causing a nuisance through noise or odours and without adversely affecting the countryside or places of special interest. This directive sets the basic concepts and definitions related to waste management, including the "waste hierarchy" which prioritises waste prevention, followed by reuse, recycling, recovery, and disposal as the last resort. The directive also introduces the concept of Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR), holding producers accountable for the entire lifecycle of their products, including take-back, recycling, and final disposal. A 2023 Amendment to the Waste Framework Directive requires that by January 1, 2025, EU Member States must implement separate textile collection systems. To achieve this, significant investments are needed to enhance infrastructure and develop new technologies for collection, sorting, reuse, and recycling of textiles. As of June 2025, the revision of the Waste Framework Directive has now been postponed to October 2025.

Regulation on Waste Shipments: The EU Waste Shipment Regulation (EU) No. 2024/1157 aims to limit the export of textile waste, particularly to non-OECD countries. The new Regulation on waste shipments entered into force on 20th May 2024. However, most provisions will apply from 21 May 2026 and most export rules will apply from 21 May 2027. A central EU system is proposed for the disclosure of waste shipment-related data from May 2026. This includes any basic information on the waste that is shipped, like the quantity, treatment, origin, and destination. This proposal aims to prevent the EU from exporting its waste problems by ensuring environmentally sound management and strengthening enforcement against illegal shipments both within the EU and to third countries. It also seeks to improve the traceability of waste shipments inside the EU to better facilitate recycling and reuse.

Corporate Sustainability Due Diligence Directive (CSDDD): This directive entered into force on 25 July 2024. It aims to promote responsible corporate conduct by requiring companies to identify and address human rights and environmental impacts across their operations and value chains, both within and outside the EU. Large companies must also adopt climate transition plans aligned with the Paris Agreement and EU climate targets. An Omnibus package adopted in February 2025 simplifies due diligence requirements. Member States must transpose the Directive by 26 July 2027, with phased application starting in 2028 and full implementation by 26 July 2029.

Corporate Sustainability Reporting Directive (CSRD): Under CSRD, companies with over 1,000 employees are required to disclose risks, opportunities, and impacts related to social and environmental issues, including their effects on people and the planet. Textile companies especially large ones, listed SMEs, and non-EU businesses earning over €150 million in the EU must publish detailed sustainability reports, even if textiles are not their core business. By requiring regular disclosures on environmental and social matters, the CSRD aims to help investors, consumers, and other stakeholders understand and compare textile companies' sustainability performance.

Registration, Evaluation, Authorisation and Restriction of Chemicals Regulation (REACH): REACH is the main EU law to protect human health and the environment from the risks that can be posed by chemicals. This is done by earlier identification of the intrinsic properties of chemical substances and by taking measures, such as phasing out or restricting substances of very high concern (SOC). REACH also aims to enhance innovation and the competitiveness of the EU chemicals industry. The Commission is currently revising the REACH Regulation, in line with the Commission’s Better Regulation provisions. It will include a thorough assessment of the possible impacts of potential changes to REACH on the protection of human health and the environment, the use of animal testing, the functioning of the internal market and the competitiveness and innovation of European industry and businesses. Under REACH, the Commission has adopted new measures to specifically restrict the use undecafluorohexanoic acid (PFHxA) and PFHxA-related substances which are subgroups of per-and polyfluoroalkyl substances (PFAS). For the textile sector, this includes the ban on the sale and use of PFHxA in consumer textiles, such as rain jackets. Manufacturers and designers will need to ensure that materials and components do not contain prohibited chemical substances.

Relevant standards

This section highlights various international, European, and industry-specific standards that provide guidance on resource efficiency, waste management, responsible sourcing, and transparency. This overview covers key standards shaping sustainable practices in the fashion and textile sector, including ISO environmental management systems, circular economy frameworks and textile-specific sustainability certifications. This section is divided into horizontal standards, which apply broadly across industries, and sector-specific standards, tailored to the unique sustainability challenges of the textile and fashion sector.

Horizontal Standards:

ISO 14001 Environmental Management System: ISO 14001 is an international standard for environmental management systems, providing a framework for organisations to minimise their environmental impact, comply with regulations, and continuously improve their environmental performance.

ISO 26000 Social Responsibility: ISO 26000 provides guidance on social responsibility, including labour practices, human rights, and community engagement. While not specific to the textile industry, it is relevant for fashion brands seeking to address social issues in their supply chains.

ISO 59000 Family of Standards: The ISO 59000 family of standards focuses on establishing a comprehensive framework for implementing and managing circular economy practices and are located within ISO/TC323. These standards provide guidelines on key areas such as terminology, principles, action planning, performance evaluation, and continuous improvement. The primary aim is to harmonise the understanding and application of circular economy concepts, supporting organisations in achieving sustainable development goals. The first three standards were published in 2024 and are ISO 59004 (key terminology, framework and principles), ISO 59010 (guidance on business models and value networks related to circularity), and ISO 59020 (measurement and assessment of circularity). Recently a new standard was published in 2025, ISO 59040:2025 (product circularity data sheet).

CEN/CLC/JTC 10/WG 8 Method to Achieve Circular Designs of Products: CEN/CLC/JTC 10/WG 8 is a working group focused on developing methods to achieve circular designs of products. The methods developed by CEN/CLC/JTC 10/WG 8 address various aspects of product design, including material selection, manufacturing processes, and end-of-life management. Published in November 2024, EN 45560 provides a standardized method for integrating circularity into product design. Key aspects of the standards include life cycle thinking, material efficiency and design guidance. EN 45560 serves as a horizontal standard, applicable across various product categories, especially where specific product standards are absent. It supports alignment with EU initiatives like the Ecodesign for Sustainable Products Regulation and the Circular Economy Action Plan. In addition, CEN/CLC/JTC 10 launched a series of standards related to reuse, repair, and recycling (EN 4555X Series). These include EN 45554:2020 (methods to assess the ability to repair, reuse, and upgrade energy-related products), EN 45555:2019 (methods for assessing the recyclability and recoverability of energy-related products), EN 45556:2019 (methods for assessing the proportion of reused components in energy-related products) and EN 45557:2020 (methods for assessing the proportion of recycled material content in energy-related products). Initially the standards were focused on energy-related products sector related to the Ecodesign directive. Under ESPR, the JTC 10 is required to broaden out its standards development to cover and be relevant to all products.

CEN/TC473-Circular Economy: CEN/TC 473 is the European standardisation committee focused on developing standards for the circular economy (CE). This committee aims to create a coherent framework that supports the transition to a circular economy by setting clear and practical guidelines for industries. The standards developed by CEN/TC 473 address various aspects of circularity, including product design, resource efficiency, waste management, and the use of secondary raw materials. CEN/TC 473 has initiated work through four dedicated Working Groups (WGs), each concentrating on a specific area: WG 1 focuses on circular economy terminology, framework and principles, WG 2 focuses on establishing standards for sharing information related to circular economy practices, WG 3 focuses on Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) and WG 4 focuses on circular business models.

Regarding the development of the ESPR, there are potential standards under development on DPP including CEN/CLC/JTC 24 (Digital Product Passport: Framework and System), ISO/PWI 25534-1 (Global DPP Standard System).

Sector Specific Standards:

ISO 5157 Textiles — Environmental aspects — Vocabulary: ISO 5157:2023 is a comprehensive standard established to ensure the quality, safety, and sustainability of products across various industries. This standard outlines the requirements for environmental management systems, focusing on reducing environmental impacts, enhancing resource efficiency, and promoting sustainable practices. By adhering to EN ISO 5157:2023, organisations can demonstrate their commitment to environmental responsibility and improve their operational performance. The standard provides a framework for identifying and controlling environmental aspects, setting objectives, and implementing policies that align with global sustainability goals. It also includes guidelines for continuous improvement and compliance with relevant legal and regulatory requirements. EN ISO 5157:2023 helps businesses minimise their environmental footprint and contribute to a greener economy.

ISO standards for the fashion and clothing sector: ISO 22120:2021 (Recycled Textile Materials) for criteria for defining and certifying recycled content in textiles. ISO 105-C06:2010 (Colour Fastness Tests) to ensure durability and longevity of textiles to minimize waste. ISO 18383:2016 (Quantification of Fibre Content) to support recycling and material reuse through accurate identification. ISO 15797:2017 (Industrial Washing and Finishing) to address durability and quality retention in professional applications.

Some CEN standards are more specific for the fashion and textile sector such as CEN/TR 16985:2016 (Textile Recycling Symbols), CEN/TC 248 (Sustainability and Circularity in Textiles), Draft CEN/TC 248 Textiles & Textile Products (Circular economy for textile products), EN 16848:2016 (Bio-based Products Communication and EN 16732:2014 (Dimensional Change in Washing).

Other Industry Standards:

Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS): GOTS is a leading standard for the processing of organic fibres, including ecological and social criteria. It covers the entire textile supply chain, from harvesting of raw materials to environmentally and socially responsible manufacturing.

Bluesign® System: The Bluesign® System is a holistic approach to textile production that aims to eliminate harmful substances from the manufacturing process, ensure resource efficiency, and promote sustainable practices. It provides guidelines and tools for brands and manufacturers to improve the environmental performance of their products.

OEKO-TEX® Standard 100: OEKO-TEX® Standard 100 is a certification system for textile products that ensures they are free from harmful substances. It focuses on consumer safety and sets limits for the use of certain chemicals in textiles, including dyes and finishes.

Cradle to Cradle Certified™: The Cradle to Cradle Products Innovation Institute certifies products based on their environmental and social performance. Their website provides information on certified materials and products, as well as resources for designers looking to incorporate circular design principles. Cradle to Cradle Certified™ is a multi-attribute certification programme that assesses products based on their environmental and social performance across five categories: material health, material re-utilisation, renewable energy and carbon management, water stewardship, and social fairness. It is relevant for brands committed to circular design principles.

Better Cotton Initiative (BCI): Aims to make global cotton production better for the people who produce it and the environment. Central to its mission is the Better Cotton Standard System, a holistic approach to sustainable cotton production that comprehensively covers all three pillars of sustainability: environmental, social, and economic. This system encompasses clear Principles and Criteria, alongside robust monitoring mechanisms that demonstrate results and impact, all of which work together to support the credibility of Better Cotton and BCI.

More information

Textile Exchange: Textile Exchange is a global nonprofit organisation that provides resources and information on sustainable fibres and materials. Their website offers reports, standards, and guides on topics such as organic cotton, recycled polyester, and responsible wool production. Here is a link to their Circularity Companion Guide .

The Ellen MacArthur Foundation: The Ellen MacArthur Foundation is a thought leader in the circular economy space, including textiles and fashion. Their reports and publications, such as the "A New Textiles Economy" series, offer insights into sustainable material selection and circular design principles.

Fashion Positive: A pioneering initiative led by the Cradle to Cradle Products Innovation Institute, dedicated to transforming the fashion industry towards circularity and sustainability. This initiative offers a comprehensive framework and resources to guide fashion brands, designers, and manufacturers in adopting circular design principles. By embracing the Cradle to Cradle Certified™ programme and other sustainable practices, Fashion Positive empowers stakeholders to rethink traditional approaches to fashion production and consumption. Here is a link to their Circular Materials Guidelines .

WRAP and The Circular Design Working Group: A collaborative effort between WRAP (Waste and Resources Action Programme) and Textiles 2030, serves as a valuable source of information for fashion designers and stakeholders seeking guidance on circular design principles. WRAP is renowned for its expertise in waste reduction and resource efficiency, while Textiles 2030 is a UK-based initiative committed to transforming the textile industry towards a circular economy. Together, their Circular Design Working Group provides insights, tools, and best practices to help designers integrate circularity into their creative process. Here is a link to their Circular Design Toolkit .