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Last updated: 10 Jun 2025

Advancing Sustainability in Fashion Manufacturing

Introduction

Fashion manufacturing's global reach has led to a complex web of supply chains. Approximately 90% of the world’s clothing production occurs in developing nations, which often offer cheaper labour but also pose serious sustainability challenges. These challenges are compounded by the industry's heavy reliance on resource-intensive processes. For example, it is estimated that the fashion industry consumes between 20 trillion to 200 trillion litres of water annually (see The Environmental Impacts of Fast Fashion on Water Quality: A Systematic Review) and generates between 2-8% of global greenhouse gas emissions (see this article from Columbia Climate News). Furthermore, every second, the equivalent of one garbage truck of textiles is landfilled or burned (see Fashion’s tiny hidden secret from the UN Environment Programme).

The fast fashion model, which encourages rapid consumption of clothing, significantly contributes to textile waste. This model has led to an increase in the number of collections released annually by major brands, exacerbating the volume of waste generated (read more here).

Reduce Production Waste

Manufacturing processes in the fashion industry generate substantial waste, including fabric scraps, trimmings, and unused materials.

To address this challenge, manufacturers can adopt waste reduction strategies such as lean manufacturing principles. Lean manufacturing focuses on minimising inefficiencies and optimising resource utilisation throughout the production process. It involves streamlining workflows, reducing overproduction, and optimising material usage to minimise waste generation.

Zero waste pattern cutting can be used to create clothing patterns that use 100% of the fabric, leaving no scraps behind. Designers strategically plan the layout of patterns on fabric to ensure every piece is utilised, which often requires a puzzle-like assembly to optimise space. This approach not only minimises waste but also encourages creativity in design processes, leading to unique and efficient garment production.

In tandem with zero waste pattern cutting, the fashion industry is increasingly leveraging virtual sampling technologies. Virtual samples replace physical prototypes with digital ones created using advanced 3D design software. This shift significantly reduces the need for multiple physical samples, thus saving materials, reducing waste, and lowering the carbon footprint associated with shipping samples back and forth during the design and approval process. Virtual sampling allows designers and manufacturing stakeholders to visualise garments realistically and make necessary adjustments digitally, speeding up the development process and reducing resource consumption.

Additionally, embracing circular design principles can facilitate the reuse and recycling of production waste. Manufacturers can design products with modular components or standardised patterns to maximise material recovery at the end of the product lifecycle. By implementing waste reduction strategies, manufacturers can minimise environmental impact and contribute to a more sustainable fashion industry.

Reduce Carbon Emissions

Fashion industry carbon emissions are expected to rise by 50% by 2030 if current practices continue​ (MDPI)​ and continue to contribute significantly to climate change and environmental degradation. To mitigate this impact, manufacturers can invest in energy-efficient technologies and renewable energy sources. For example, transitioning to solar or wind power can significantly reduce carbon emissions associated with manufacturing processes.

Additionally, using artificial intelligence techniques to optimise production processes to reduce energy consumption can further reduce carbon emissions. An example of AI application in fashion production can be seen with companies like Levi Strauss & Co. They use AI to forecast style trends more accurately, thus aligning production volumes more closely with demand, minimising overproduction, and reducing energy use in manufacturing processes. These AI-driven optimisations ensure that resources are used efficiently, and excess production, which often leads to wastage, is curtailed.

Manufacturers can track and monitor their carbon footprint using tools like the Higg Manufacturing Module, which provides insights into energy usage and emissions across different stages of the production process. By prioritising sustainability and carbon reduction initiatives, manufacturers can minimise their environmental footprint and contribute to global efforts to combat climate change.

Reduce Water Usage

Water is a vital resource in textile manufacturing, but its excessive use contributes to water scarcity and pollution. Manufacturers can reduce water usage by implementing water-saving technologies such as closed-loop water recycling systems and low-water dyeing processes. These technologies can drastically reduce water usage and pollution​ (UNEP - UN Environment Programme ).

Closed-loop systems capture and treat water from manufacturing processes, allowing it to be reused multiple times, thus reducing overall water consumption. Low-water dyeing processes, such as air dyeing or digital printing, minimise water usage compared to traditional dyeing methods. Additionally, adopting water-efficient production techniques and optimising manufacturing processes can further minimise water consumption.

Manufacturers can assess their water footprint and implement water stewardship initiatives to ensure responsible water management practices. By prioritising water stewardship and conservation efforts, manufacturers can minimise their environmental impact and contribute to sustainable water management practices.

Reduce the Use of Harmful Chemicals

The use of harmful chemicals in manufacturing processes, such as dyeing and tanning, poses significant risks to human health and the environment. Manufacturers can reduce the use of harmful chemicals by substituting toxic substances with safer alternatives and implementing eco-friendly production practices. For example, natural dyes derived from plants or minerals can replace synthetic dyes, reducing the environmental impact of dyeing processes.

Manufacturers can implement chemical management systems to track and control the use of hazardous substances throughout the production process. By prioritising chemical management and adopting sustainable production practices, manufacturers can minimise environmental pollution and protect human health.

A notable example of a manufacturer implementing chemical management systems to control the use of hazardous substances is the H&M Group. The company is part of the Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals (ZDHC) programme, which aims to eliminate the use of priority chemicals in the production process. H&M Group uses the ZDHC’s Manufacturing Restricted Substances List and tools to monitor and manage the chemicals used in their manufacturing. This initiative not only helps in tracking and reducing the use of harmful chemicals but also ensures compliance with global standards, improving environmental sustainability and worker safety in their supply chains. Such systems represent a significant advancement in the industry, offering a blueprint for other companies seeking to enhance their chemical management practices.

Additionally, adopting certifications and standards such as the OEKO-TEX® Standard 100 and the bluesign® system can ensure the use of environmentally friendly materials and processes.

Conclusion

The imperative to adopt sustainable manufacturing practices in the garment industry cannot be overstated. By addressing production waste, carbon emissions, water usage, and harmful chemicals, manufacturers can significantly reduce their environmental impact.

While the journey toward sustainability is complex and challenging, the integration of innovative technologies and methodologies into manufacturing processes represents a critical step forward. It is essential for stakeholders across the fashion value chain to consider these changes not just beneficial, but necessary for the long-term viability of the industry.

Clothing, fashion and textiles: policies and standards

EU Circular Economy Action Plan 1 & 2: The EU Circular Economy Action Plan 1 (CEAP 1), launched in 2015, set the foundation for transforming the European economy from a linear to a circular model. The plan introduced 54 targeted actions, including legislative proposals to revise the Waste Framework Directive, Landfill Directive, and Packaging Waste Directive. It focused on improving product design to facilitate repair and recycling, enhancing waste management systems, and developing a functioning market for secondary raw materials. Sector-specific initiatives included the EU Strategy for Plastics in a Circular Economy, which aimed to make all plastic packaging recyclable or reusable by 2030; measures to reduce food waste by setting a common EU methodology to measure food waste levels; and efforts to ensure the secure supply of critical raw materials through improved recycling and reuse.

Building on the successes of the first, the EU Circular Economy Action Plan 2 (CEAP 2), introduced in 2020 as a core component of the European Green Deal presented a more comprehensive and ambitious strategy. The CEAP 2 identified critical shortcomings in current product design, which often fail to prioritise durability, reusability, repairability, and recyclability throughout the product lifecycle. It also highlighted the lack of accessible information and affordable sustainable choices for both consumers and businesses. To overcome these obstacles and foster a truly circular economy, the CEAP 2 emphasised the need for a well-functioning internal market for sustainable products. A central pillar is the proposed Ecodesign for Sustainable Products Regulation (ESPR), which will set requirements for products to be more durable, reusable, repairable, and easier to recycle. This includes measures like digital product passports, mandatory green public procurement criteria, and a ban on the destruction of unsold durable goods. It also targets resource-intensive sectors with high circularity potential textiles with the EU Strategy for Sustainable and Circular Textiles (published in 2022).

The Green Claims Directive 2024: The Green Claims Directive is an EU initiative aimed at ensuring that environmental claims made by companies about their products and services are clear, accurate, and substantiated. This directive addresses the growing issue of greenwashing, where misleading claims about environmental benefits are made. To combat greenwashing, the directive sets strict guidelines requiring businesses to provide verifiable evidence for their environmental claims. Companies must substantiate claims using recognised scientific methods and have them verified by independent accredited bodies before making them public. They must specify the scope of claims whether they apply to the entire product, a part of it, or a specific aspect of its lifecycle. They also must undergo ex-ante verification, meaning all voluntary environmental claims must be assessed before being presented to consumers. This verification process must be completed within 30 days to ensure timely compliance. The directive covers various aspects such as carbon footprint, resource efficiency, and recyclability. Furthermore, vague or generic environmental claims such as "eco-friendly," "green," "ecological," or "environmentally friendly" without clear and prominent substantiation will be effectively banned if they cannot meet strict criteria. This directive entered into force on the 26 March 2024 and member states must now incorporate its requirements into national law by 26 September 2026. It complements the Directive to Empower Consumers for the Green Transition, which entered into force on the 27 March 2024, further strengthening consumer rights against misleading sustainability claims.

Textile Labelling Regulation: The regulation, which is currently under revision, aims to improve the functioning of the internal market and provide accurate information to consumers. It sets out a framework on how the textile composition is to be declared and how fibre composition should be. The introduction of rules on labelling domains such as sustainability and circularity, care, origin, size and presence of allergenic substances is currently under consideration, with a view to proposing a fundamental revision of the Regulation soon. The planned proposed revision of this regulation aims to be published by the fourth quarter of 2025.

Registration, Evaluation, Authorisation and Restriction of Chemicals Regulation (REACH): REACH is the main EU law to protect human health and the environment from the risks that can be posed by chemicals. This is done by earlier identification of the intrinsic properties of chemical substances and by taking measures, such as phasing out or restricting substances of very high concern (SOC). REACH also aims to enhance innovation and the competitiveness of the EU chemicals industry. The Commission is currently revising the REACH Regulation, in line with the Commission’s Better Regulation provisions. It will include a thorough assessment of the possible impacts of potential changes to REACH on the protection of human health and the environment, the use of animal testing, the functioning of the internal market and the competitiveness and innovation of European industry and businesses. Under REACH, the Commission has adopted new measures to specifically restrict the use undecafluorohexanoic acid (PFHxA) and PFHxA-related substances which are subgroups of per-and polyfluoroalkyl substances (PFAS). For the textile sector, this includes the ban on the sale and use of PFHxA in consumer textiles, such as rain jackets. Manufacturers and designers will need to ensure that materials and components do not contain prohibited chemical substances.

Corporate Sustainability Due Diligence Directive (CSDDD): This directive entered into force on 25 July 2024. It aims to promote responsible corporate conduct by requiring companies to identify and address human rights and environmental impacts across their operations and value chains, both within and outside the EU. Large companies must also adopt climate transition plans aligned with the Paris Agreement and EU climate targets. An Omnibus package adopted in February 2025 simplifies due diligence requirements. Member States must transpose the Directive by 26 July 2027, with phased application starting in 2028 and full implementation by 26 July 2029.

Corporate Sustainability Reporting Directive (CSRD): Under CSRD, companies with over 1,000 employees are required to disclose risks, opportunities, and impacts related to social and environmental issues, including their effects on people and the planet. Textile companies especially large ones, listed SMEs, and non-EU businesses earning over €150 million in the EU must publish detailed sustainability reports, even if textiles are not their core business. By requiring regular disclosures on environmental and social matters, the CSRD aims to help investors, consumers, and other stakeholders understand and compare textile companies' sustainability performance.

EU Waste Framework Directive: The Waste Framework Directive (Directive 2008/98/EC) is a cornerstone of the EU's waste management policy. It requires that waste be managed without endangering human health and harming the environment, without risk to water, air, soil, plants, or animals, without causing a nuisance through noise or odours and without adversely affecting the countryside or places of special interest. This directive sets the basic concepts and definitions related to waste management, including the "waste hierarchy" which prioritises waste prevention, followed by reuse, recycling, recovery, and disposal as the last resort. The directive also introduces the concept of Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR), holding producers accountable for the entire lifecycle of their products, including take-back, recycling, and final disposal. A 2023 Amendment to the Waste Framework Directive requires that by January 1, 2025, EU Member States must implement separate textile collection systems. To achieve this, significant investments are needed to enhance infrastructure and develop new technologies for collection, sorting, reuse, and recycling of textiles. As of June 2025, the revision of the Waste Framework Directive has now been postponed to October 2025.

Regulation on Waste Shipments: The EU Waste Shipment Regulation (EU) No. 2024/1157 aims to limit the export of textile waste, particularly to non-OECD countries. The new Regulation on waste shipments entered into force on 20th May 2024. However, most provisions will apply from 21 May 2026 and most export rules will apply from 21 May 2027. A central EU system is proposed for the disclosure of waste shipment-related data from May 2026. This includes any basic information on the waste that is shipped, like the quantity, treatment, origin, and destination. This proposal aims to prevent the EU from exporting its waste problems by ensuring environmentally sound management and strengthening enforcement against illegal shipments both within the EU and to third countries. It also seeks to improve the traceability of waste shipments inside the EU to better facilitate recycling and reuse.

Relevant standards

This section highlights various international, European, and industry-specific standards that provide guidance on resource efficiency, waste management, responsible sourcing, and transparency. This overview covers key standards shaping sustainable practices in the fashion and textile sector, including ISO environmental management systems, circular economy frameworks and textile-specific sustainability certifications. This section is divided into horizontal standards, which apply broadly across industries, and sector-specific standards, tailored to the unique sustainability challenges of the textile and fashion sector.

Horizontal Standards:

ISO 14001 Environmental Management System: ISO 14001 is an international standard for environmental management systems, providing a framework for organisations to minimise their environmental impact, comply with regulations, and continuously improve their environmental performance.

ISO 26000 Social Responsibility: ISO 26000 provides guidance on social responsibility, including labour practices, human rights, and community engagement. While not specific to the textile industry, it is relevant for fashion brands seeking to address social issues in their supply chains.

ISO50001 Energy Management: ISO 50001 is an international standard developed by the International Organization for Standardization (ISO) that specifies the requirements for establishing, implementing, maintaining, and improving an energy management system (EnMS). The goal of this standard is to help organisations continually reduce their energy use, energy costs, and environmental impacts associated with energy use.

ISO 59000 Family of Standards: The ISO 59000 family of standards focuses on establishing a comprehensive framework for implementing and managing circular economy practices and are located within ISO/TC323. These standards provide guidelines on key areas such as terminology, principles, action planning, performance evaluation, and continuous improvement. The primary aim is to harmonise the understanding and application of circular economy concepts, supporting organisations in achieving sustainable development goals. The first three standards were published in 2024 and are ISO 59004 (key terminology, framework and principles), ISO 59010 (guidance on business models and value networks related to circularity), and ISO 59020 (measurement and assessment of circularity). Recently a new standard was published in 2025, ISO 59040:2025 (product circularity data sheet).

CEN/CLC/JTC 10/WG 8 Method to Achieve Circular Designs of Products: CEN/CLC/JTC 10/WG 8 is a working group focused on developing methods to achieve circular designs of products. The methods developed by CEN/CLC/JTC 10/WG 8 address various aspects of product design, including material selection, manufacturing processes, and end-of-life management. Published in November 2024, EN 45560 provides a standardized method for integrating circularity into product design. Key aspects of the standards include life cycle thinking, material efficiency and design guidance. EN 45560 serves as a horizontal standard, applicable across various product categories, especially where specific product standards are absent. It supports alignment with EU initiatives like the Ecodesign for Sustainable Products Regulation and the Circular Economy Action Plan. In addition, CEN/CLC/JTC 10 launched a series of standards related to reuse, repair, and recycling (EN 4555X Series). These include EN 45554:2020 (methods to assess the ability to repair, reuse, and upgrade energy-related products), EN 45555:2019 (methods for assessing the recyclability and recoverability of energy-related products), EN 45556:2019 (methods for assessing the proportion of reused components in energy-related products) and EN 45557:2020 (methods for assessing the proportion of recycled material content in energy-related products). Initially the standards were focused on energy-related products sector related to the Ecodesign directive. Under ESPR, the JTC 10 is required to broaden out its standards development to cover and be relevant to all products.

CEN/TC473-Circular Economy: CEN/TC 473 is the European standardisation committee focused on developing standards for the circular economy (CE). This committee aims to create a coherent framework that supports the transition to a circular economy by setting clear and practical guidelines for industries. The standards developed by CEN/TC 473 address various aspects of circularity, including product design, resource efficiency, waste management, and the use of secondary raw materials. CEN/TC 473 has initiated work through four dedicated Working Groups (WGs), each concentrating on a specific area: WG 1 focuses on circular economy terminology, framework and principles, WG 2 focuses on establishing standards for sharing information related to circular economy practices, WG 3 focuses on Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) and WG 4 focuses on circular business models.

Regarding the development of the ESPR, there are potential standards under development on DPP including CEN/CLC/JTC 24 (Digital Product Passport: Framework and System), ISO/PWI 25534-1 (Global DPP Standard System).

Sector Specific Standards:

ISO 5157 Textiles — Environmental aspects — Vocabulary: ISO 5157:2023 is a comprehensive standard established to ensure the quality, safety, and sustainability of products across various industries. This standard outlines the requirements for environmental management systems, focusing on reducing environmental impacts, enhancing resource efficiency, and promoting sustainable practices. By adhering to EN ISO 5157:2023, organisations can demonstrate their commitment to environmental responsibility and improve their operational performance. The standard provides a framework for identifying and controlling environmental aspects, setting objectives, and implementing policies that align with global sustainability goals. It also includes guidelines for continuous improvement and compliance with relevant legal and regulatory requirements. EN ISO 5157:2023 helps businesses minimise their environmental footprint and contribute to a greener economy.

ISO standards for the fashion and clothing sector: ISO 22120:2021 (Recycled Textile Materials) for criteria for defining and certifying recycled content in textiles. ISO 105-C06:2010 (Colour Fastness Tests) to ensure durability and longevity of textiles to minimize waste. ISO 18383:2016 (Quantification of Fibre Content) to support recycling and material reuse through accurate identification. ISO 15797:2017 (Industrial Washing and Finishing) to address durability and quality retention in professional applications.

Some CEN standards are more specific for the fashion and textile sector such as CEN/TR 16985:2016 (Textile Recycling Symbols), CEN/TC 248 (Sustainability and Circularity in Textiles), Draft CEN/TC 248 Textiles & Textile Products (Circular economy for textile products), EN 16848:2016 (Bio-based Products Communication and EN 16732:2014 (Dimensional Change in Washing).

Other Industry Standards:

Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS): GOTS is a leading standard for the processing of organic fibres, including ecological and social criteria. It covers the entire textile supply chain, from harvesting of raw materials to environmentally and socially responsible manufacturing.

Bluesign® System: The Bluesign® System is a holistic approach to textile production that aims to eliminate harmful substances from the manufacturing process, ensure resource efficiency, and promote sustainable practices. It provides guidelines and tools for brands and manufacturers to improve the environmental performance of their products.

OEKO-TEX® Standard 100: OEKO-TEX® Standard 100 is a certification system for textile products that ensures they are free from harmful substances. It focuses on consumer safety and sets limits for the use of certain chemicals in textiles, including dyes and finishes.

Cradle to Cradle Certified™: The Cradle to Cradle Products Innovation Institute certifies products based on their environmental and social performance. Their website provides information on certified materials and products, as well as resources for designers looking to incorporate circular design principles. Cradle to Cradle Certified™ is a multi-attribute certification programme that assesses products based on their environmental and social performance across five categories: material health, material re-utilisation, renewable energy and carbon management, water stewardship, and social fairness. It is relevant for brands committed to circular design principles.

Better Cotton Initiative (BCI): Aims to make global cotton production better for the people who produce it and the environment. Central to its mission is the Better Cotton Standard System, a holistic approach to sustainable cotton production that comprehensively covers all three pillars of sustainability: environmental, social, and economic. This system encompasses clear Principles and Criteria, alongside robust monitoring mechanisms that demonstrate results and impact, all of which work together to support the credibility of Better Cotton and BCI.

More information

ZDHC Manufacturing Restricted Substances List (MRSL): The ZDHC Foundation (Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals) plays a pivotal role in the fashion and textile industries by promoting safer chemical management practices. It was established with the goal of eliminating the use of hazardous chemicals in the production process. The ZDHC’s approach includes developing tools like the Manufacturing Restricted Substances List (MRSL) and providing a platform for industry stakeholders to collaborate on sustainable chemical management practices. The MRSL is a critical tool in the fashion industry's push towards sustainability and sets forth strict guidelines on the chemical substances that can be used in the production and manufacturing of textiles, leather, and footwear. Its primary goal is to avoid the use of hazardous chemicals that could potentially harm workers, consumers, and the environment. The list specifies acceptable concentration limits for each chemical listed, ensuring that any chemical used in manufacturing processes is safe, controlled, and within the recommended limits. Compliance with the ZDHC MRSL is part of the broader commitment by brands and manufacturers to improve chemical management practices, promote worker safety, and reduce environmental impact.

Carbon Trust: The Carbon Trust is an international organisation focused on helping businesses, governments, and other organisations reduce their carbon emissions and become more resource-efficient. Their mission is to accelerate the move to a sustainable, low-carbon economy by providing specialist support to help organisations cut carbon emissions, save energy, and commercialize low-carbon technologies. The Trust offers advice, footprinting, and technology development services, along with certification and verification to standardize sustainability claims, thereby encouraging and guiding companies in their efforts to make real changes that benefit both the environment and their economic status.

Sustainable Apparel Coalition (SAC) and the Higg Index: SAC has now been renamed Cascale and is an industry alliance working to promote sustainability in the apparel, footwear, and textile industry. Their Higg Materials Sustainability Index (Higg MSI) provides data and insights on the environmental impacts of various materials, helping designers make informed choices.The Higg Index is a suite of tools developed by SAC to measure and score the environmental and social impacts of apparel and footwear products throughout their lifecycle. It includes modules for materials, manufacturing, and product use and end-of-life.

Water Footprint Network: The Water Footprint Network (WFN) is a dynamic global network dedicated to promoting sustainable, fair, and efficient use of fresh water resources worldwide. Founded in response to the growing recognition of water scarcity issues, the WFN develops methods to calculate and report water footprints, helping businesses and governments to understand water use and reduce their water consumption. Their work includes providing tools and guidelines that assess water use across various products and processes, aiming to improve water management practices and support the creation of water stewardship standards.

World Resources Institute: The World Resources Institute (WRI) is a global research organisation that focuses on environmental sustainability and the well-being of people. WRI works to address urgent environmental challenges by providing insights, analysis, and practical solutions to governments, businesses, and civil society. The organisation conducts research and analysis on a wide range of topics, including climate change, water resources, forests, energy, food systems, and sustainable cities. WRI collaborates with partners around the world to develop innovative strategies and implement practical solutions that promote economic development while safeguarding natural resources and ecosystems.