Last updated: 1 Aug 2024 at 09:00
Advancing Sustainability in Fashion Manufacturing
Introduction
Fashion manufacturing's global reach has led to a complex web of supply chains. Approximately 90% of the world’s clothing production occurs in developing nations, which often offer cheaper labour but also pose serious sustainability challenges. These challenges are compounded by the industry's heavy reliance on resource-intensive processes. For example, it is estimated that the fashion industry consumes between 20 trillion to 200 trillion litres of water annually (see The Environmental Impacts of Fast Fashion on Water Quality: A Systematic Review) and generates between 2-8% of global greenhouse gas emissions (see this article from Columbia Climate News). Furthermore, every second, the equivalent of one garbage truck of textiles is landfilled or burned (see Fashion’s tiny hidden secret from the UN Environment Programme).
The fast fashion model, which encourages rapid consumption of clothing, significantly contributes to textile waste. This model has led to an increase in the number of collections released annually by major brands, exacerbating the volume of waste generated (read more here).
Reduce Production Waste
Manufacturing processes in the fashion industry generate substantial waste, including fabric scraps, trimmings, and unused materials.
To address this challenge, manufacturers can adopt waste reduction strategies such as lean manufacturing principles. Lean manufacturing focuses on minimising inefficiencies and optimising resource utilisation throughout the production process. It involves streamlining workflows, reducing overproduction, and optimising material usage to minimise waste generation.
Zero waste pattern cutting can be used to create clothing patterns that use 100% of the fabric, leaving no scraps behind. Designers strategically plan the layout of patterns on fabric to ensure every piece is utilised, which often requires a puzzle-like assembly to optimise space. This approach not only minimises waste but also encourages creativity in design processes, leading to unique and efficient garment production.
In tandem with zero waste pattern cutting, the fashion industry is increasingly leveraging virtual sampling technologies. Virtual samples replace physical prototypes with digital ones created using advanced 3D design software. This shift significantly reduces the need for multiple physical samples, thus saving materials, reducing waste, and lowering the carbon footprint associated with shipping samples back and forth during the design and approval process. Virtual sampling allows designers and manufacturing stakeholders to visualise garments realistically and make necessary adjustments digitally, speeding up the development process and reducing resource consumption.
Additionally, embracing circular design principles can facilitate the reuse and recycling of production waste. Manufacturers can design products with modular components or standardised patterns to maximise material recovery at the end of the product lifecycle. By implementing waste reduction strategies, manufacturers can minimise environmental impact and contribute to a more sustainable fashion industry.
Reduce Carbon Emissions
Fashion industry carbon emissions are expected to rise by 50% by 2030 if current practices continue (MDPI) and continue to contribute significantly to climate change and environmental degradation. To mitigate this impact, manufacturers can invest in energy-efficient technologies and renewable energy sources. For example, transitioning to solar or wind power can significantly reduce carbon emissions associated with manufacturing processes.
Additionally, using artificial intelligence techniques to optimise production processes to reduce energy consumption can further reduce carbon emissions. An example of AI application in fashion production can be seen with companies like Levi Strauss & Co. They use AI to forecast style trends more accurately, thus aligning production volumes more closely with demand, minimising overproduction, and reducing energy use in manufacturing processes. These AI-driven optimisations ensure that resources are used efficiently, and excess production, which often leads to wastage, is curtailed.
Manufacturers can track and monitor their carbon footprint using tools like the Higg Manufacturing Module, which provides insights into energy usage and emissions across different stages of the production process. By prioritising sustainability and carbon reduction initiatives, manufacturers can minimise their environmental footprint and contribute to global efforts to combat climate change.
Reduce Water Usage
Water is a vital resource in textile manufacturing, but its excessive use contributes to water scarcity and pollution. Manufacturers can reduce water usage by implementing water-saving technologies such as closed-loop water recycling systems and low-water dyeing processes. These technologies can drastically reduce water usage and pollution (UNEP - UN Environment Programme ).
Closed-loop systems capture and treat water from manufacturing processes, allowing it to be reused multiple times, thus reducing overall water consumption. Low-water dyeing processes, such as air dyeing or digital printing, minimise water usage compared to traditional dyeing methods. Additionally, adopting water-efficient production techniques and optimising manufacturing processes can further minimise water consumption.
Manufacturers can assess their water footprint and implement water stewardship initiatives to ensure responsible water management practices. By prioritising water stewardship and conservation efforts, manufacturers can minimise their environmental impact and contribute to sustainable water management practices.
Reduce the Use of Harmful Chemicals
The use of harmful chemicals in manufacturing processes, such as dyeing and tanning, poses significant risks to human health and the environment. Manufacturers can reduce the use of harmful chemicals by substituting toxic substances with safer alternatives and implementing eco-friendly production practices. For example, natural dyes derived from plants or minerals can replace synthetic dyes, reducing the environmental impact of dyeing processes.
Manufacturers can implement chemical management systems to track and control the use of hazardous substances throughout the production process. By prioritising chemical management and adopting sustainable production practices, manufacturers can minimise environmental pollution and protect human health.
A notable example of a manufacturer implementing chemical management systems to control the use of hazardous substances is the H&M Group. The company is part of the Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals (ZDHC) programme, which aims to eliminate the use of priority chemicals in the production process. H&M Group uses the ZDHC’s Manufacturing Restricted Substances List and tools to monitor and manage the chemicals used in their manufacturing. This initiative not only helps in tracking and reducing the use of harmful chemicals but also ensures compliance with global standards, improving environmental sustainability and worker safety in their supply chains. Such systems represent a significant advancement in the industry, offering a blueprint for other companies seeking to enhance their chemical management practices.
Additionally, adopting certifications and standards such as the OEKO-TEX® Standard 100 and the bluesign® system can ensure the use of environmentally friendly materials and processes.
Conclusion
The imperative to adopt sustainable manufacturing practices in the garment industry cannot be overstated. By addressing production waste, carbon emissions, water usage, and harmful chemicals, manufacturers can significantly reduce their environmental impact.
While the journey toward sustainability is complex and challenging, the integration of innovative technologies and methodologies into manufacturing processes represents a critical step forward. It is essential for stakeholders across the fashion value chain to consider these changes not just beneficial, but necessary for the long-term viability of the industry.
Relevant policies
EU Circular Economy Action Plan 1 & 2: The EU Circular Economy Action Plan 1, launched in 2015, set the foundation for transforming the European economy from a linear to a circular model. This initial plan focused on closing the loop of product lifecycles through greater recycling and re-use, benefiting both the environment and the economy. Key measures included actions to address waste management, product design, and fostering markets for secondary raw materials. The plan targeted various sectors, including plastics, food waste, and critical raw materials, aiming to boost competitiveness, create jobs, and generate sustainable growth. Building on the successes of the first, the EU Circular Economy Action Plan 2, introduced in 2020, aims to accelerate the transition with a more comprehensive and ambitious approach. This updated plan emphasises sustainable product design, reduction of waste, and empowerment of consumers. It includes measures to ensure that products placed on the EU market are designed to last longer, are easier to reuse, repair, and recycle, and incorporate as much recycled material as possible. Key sectors such as electronics, textiles, and construction are particularly targeted, with the goal of doubling the EU's circular material use rate by 2030 and significantly reducing the environmental footprint of EU consumption.
EU Strategy for Sustainable and Circular Textiles: The EU Strategy for Sustainable and Circular Textiles is an initiative aimed at transforming the textile industry to become more sustainable, circular, and resource-efficient. This strategy, part of the broader European Green Deal and Circular Economy Action Plan, focuses on reducing the environmental impact of textiles throughout their lifecycle, from production to end-of-life. It addresses key issues such as waste generation, resource consumption, and pollution associated with the textile sector.
Key components of the strategy include promoting the design of textiles for durability, repairability, and recyclability. It also emphasises the importance of using sustainable and recycled materials, improving waste management, and fostering innovative business models like reuse and recycling. The strategy aims to ensure that textile products placed on the EU market are long-lasting and recyclable, and produced in an environmentally friendly manner. By setting clear guidelines and supporting research and innovation, the EU Strategy for Sustainable and Circular Textiles seeks to drive the industry towards greater sustainability and circularity, benefiting both the environment and the economy.
EU Digital Product Passport (DPP): The proposed EU Digital Product Passports (DPPs), while awaiting final clarity and implementation decisions, represent a significant step forward in enhancing transparency and sustainability in the textiles and fashion industry. These passports, mandated under the Ecodesign for Sustainable Products Regulation (ESPR), are designed to provide detailed information about the entire lifecycle of textile products. By embedding digital tags or QR codes on garments, consumers, businesses, and regulators can access data on the materials used, manufacturing processes, and environmental impact.
This initiative aims to empower consumers to make more informed choices, foster sustainable practices among manufacturers, and facilitate efficient recycling and waste management processes. In the context of textiles and fashion, DPPs are particularly crucial due to the sector's considerable environmental footprint. The industry is known for high levels of resource consumption, waste production, and pollution. With DPPs, brands can demonstrate their commitment to sustainability by providing verifiable information about the sourcing and processing of materials. Moreover, these digital passports enable better traceability, ensuring that products comply with environmental standards and ethical practices. As a result, DPPs are expected to play a pivotal role in driving the EU towards its circular economy goals, reducing textile waste, and promoting a more sustainable fashion industry.
Relevant standards
ISO 14001 Environmental Management System: ISO 14001 is an international standard for environmental management systems, providing a framework for organisations to minimise their environmental impact, comply with regulations, and continuously improve their environmental performance.
ISO 26000 Social Responsibility: ISO 26000 provides guidance on social responsibility, including labour practices, human rights, and community engagement. While not specific to the textile industry, it is relevant for fashion brands seeking to address social issues in their supply chains.
ISO50001 Energy Management: ISO 50001 is an international standard developed by the International Organization for Standardization (ISO) that specifies the requirements for establishing, implementing, maintaining, and improving an energy management system (EnMS). The goal of this standard is to help organisations continually reduce their energy use, energy costs, and environmental impacts associated with energy use.
ISO 5157 Textiles — Environmental aspects — Vocabulary: ISO 5157:2023 is a comprehensive standard established to ensure the quality, safety, and sustainability of products across various industries. This standard outlines the requirements for environmental management systems, focusing on reducing environmental impacts, enhancing resource efficiency, and promoting sustainable practices. By adhering to EN ISO 5157:2023, organisations can demonstrate their commitment to environmental responsibility and improve their operational performance. The standard provides a framework for identifying and controlling environmental aspects, setting objectives, and implementing policies that align with global sustainability goals. It also includes guidelines for continuous improvement and compliance with relevant legal and regulatory requirements. EN ISO 5157:2023 helps businesses minimise their environmental footprint and contribute to a greener economy.
ISO 59000 Family of Standards: The ISO 59000 family of standards focuses on establishing a comprehensive framework for implementing and managing circular economy practices and are located within ISO/TC323. These standards provide guidelines on key areas such as terminology, principles, action planning, performance evaluation, and continuous improvement. The primary aim is to harmonise the understanding and application of circular economy concepts, supporting organisations in achieving sustainable development goals. The first three standards were published in 2024 and are ISO 59004 (key terminology, framework and principles), ISO 59010 (guidance on business models and value networks related to circularity), and ISO 59020 (measurement and assessment of circularity).
CEN/TC473-Circular Economy: CEN/TC 473 is the European standardisation committee focused on developing standards for the circular economy. This committee aims to create a coherent framework that supports the transition to a circular economy by setting clear and practical guidelines for industries. The standards developed by CEN/TC 473 address various aspects of circularity, including product design, resource efficiency, waste management, and the use of secondary raw materials. The work of CEN/TC 473 is crucial for ensuring that products and processes across Europe are designed to minimise environmental impact and promote sustainability. By establishing standardised methodologies and criteria, the committee helps businesses align with EU policies on circular economy and environmental protection. These standards facilitate the adoption of best practices and innovative solutions that contribute to a more sustainable and resource-efficient economy.
Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS): GOTS is a leading standard for the processing of organic fibres, including ecological and social criteria. It covers the entire textile supply chain, from harvesting of raw materials to environmentally and socially responsible manufacturing.
Bluesign® System: The Bluesign® System is a holistic approach to textile production that aims to eliminate harmful substances from the manufacturing process, ensure resource efficiency, and promote sustainable practices. It provides guidelines and tools for brands and manufacturers to improve the environmental performance of their products.
OEKO-TEX® Standard 100: OEKO-TEX® Standard 100 is a certification system for textile products that ensures they are free from harmful substances. It focuses on consumer safety and sets limits for the use of certain chemicals in textiles, including dyes and finishes.
More information
ZDHC Manufacturing Restricted Substances List (MRSL): The ZDHC Foundation (Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals) plays a pivotal role in the fashion and textile industries by promoting safer chemical management practices. It was established with the goal of eliminating the use of hazardous chemicals in the production process. The ZDHC’s approach includes developing tools like the Manufacturing Restricted Substances List (MRSL) and providing a platform for industry stakeholders to collaborate on sustainable chemical management practices. The MRSL is a critical tool in the fashion industry's push towards sustainability and sets forth strict guidelines on the chemical substances that can be used in the production and manufacturing of textiles, leather, and footwear. Its primary goal is to avoid the use of hazardous chemicals that could potentially harm workers, consumers, and the environment. The list specifies acceptable concentration limits for each chemical listed, ensuring that any chemical used in manufacturing processes is safe, controlled, and within the recommended limits. Compliance with the ZDHC MRSL is part of the broader commitment by brands and manufacturers to improve chemical management practices, promote worker safety, and reduce environmental impact.
Carbon Trust: The Carbon Trust is an international organisation focused on helping businesses, governments, and other organisations reduce their carbon emissions and become more resource-efficient. Their mission is to accelerate the move to a sustainable, low-carbon economy by providing specialist support to help organisations cut carbon emissions, save energy, and commercialize low-carbon technologies. The Trust offers advice, footprinting, and technology development services, along with certification and verification to standardize sustainability claims, thereby encouraging and guiding companies in their efforts to make real changes that benefit both the environment and their economic status.
Sustainable Apparel Coalition (SAC) and the Higg Index: SAC has now been renamed Cascale and is an industry alliance working to promote sustainability in the apparel, footwear, and textile industry. Their Higg Materials Sustainability Index (Higg MSI) provides data and insights on the environmental impacts of various materials, helping designers make informed choices.The Higg Index is a suite of tools developed by SAC to measure and score the environmental and social impacts of apparel and footwear products throughout their lifecycle. It includes modules for materials, manufacturing, and product use and end-of-life.
Water Footprint Network: The Water Footprint Network (WFN) is a dynamic global network dedicated to promoting sustainable, fair, and efficient use of fresh water resources worldwide. Founded in response to the growing recognition of water scarcity issues, the WFN develops methods to calculate and report water footprints, helping businesses and governments to understand water use and reduce their water consumption. Their work includes providing tools and guidelines that assess water use across various products and processes, aiming to improve water management practices and support the creation of water stewardship standards.
World Resources Institute: The World Resources Institute (WRI) is a global research organisation that focuses on environmental sustainability and the well-being of people. WRI works to address urgent environmental challenges by providing insights, analysis, and practical solutions to governments, businesses, and civil society. The organisation conducts research and analysis on a wide range of topics, including climate change, water resources, forests, energy, food systems, and sustainable cities. WRI collaborates with partners around the world to develop innovative strategies and implement practical solutions that promote economic development while safeguarding natural resources and ecosystems.