Last updated: 1 Aug 2024 at 09:00
Managing End-of-Life for Garments
Introduction
In the cyclical narrative of sustainable fashion, the end of one garment's life marks the start of another, embodying the principles of the circular economy. This paradigm shift challenges the traditional, linear model of "take, make, dispose" by envisioning waste and resource use in a way that emphasises renewal and repurposing.
Each garment, when it reaches the perceived end of its usability, enters a process that either converts it into new forms or extracts its fundamental components for reuse. This approach not only extends the lifecycle of materials but also significantly reduces the environmental impact associated with the continuous extraction of virgin resources. Thus, in the sustainable fashion industry, the conclusion of a garment's use phase is not a termination, but rather a transition—a crucial pivot point that leads to innovative use and conservation of resources.
Closed Loop Systems
Implementing closed-loop systems is crucial for fostering sustainability within the fashion industry. These systems are designed so that garments are made with their eventual disposal and reuse in mind, ensuring they can seamlessly re-enter the production cycle once they're no longer needed by consumers. This approach typically involves using materials that are more amenable to recycling and adopting manufacturing processes that maintain the quality and integrity of fibres for their reuse.
Closed-loop systems significantly reduce waste by reprocessing old garments into new products. For instance, brands like Patagonia and H&M have developed take-back programs where customers can return worn-out clothes. These clothes are then recycled into new fabric, creating new garments without the need to extract raw resources. Such initiatives not only lessen the waste going to landfills but also curb the environmental impacts associated with raw material extraction and processing.
Moreover, these programs can extend beyond merely recycling old garments. By incorporating innovative techniques such as chemical recycling, where fibres are broken down chemically and reformed into new textiles, the potential for maintaining or even enhancing the quality of recycled fibres increases. This approach supports the industry’s shift towards complete sustainability, where the goal is not just to reduce waste but to create a regenerative cycle that supports continuous use of the same materials in a loop, minimising the need for new resources.
In addition to recycling, these closed-loop systems also encourage a redesign of garment production processes to decrease resource consumption and waste generation from the outset. Brands engaging in these practices are setting new industry standards and paving the way for a future where fashion is both eco-friendly and economically viable. This shift requires collaboration across the industry—from designers and manufacturers to retailers and consumers—to achieve a truly sustainable fashion ecosystem.
Material and/or Parts Recovery for Reuse and Recycling
The process of recovering materials or parts from used garments plays a vital role in reducing waste in the fashion industry. Reusing components such as buttons, zippers, and various types of fabrics not only diminishes the reliance on virgin materials but also cuts down the environmental toll of extracting and processing new resources. For instance, denim jeans can be repurposed into insulation for buildings, offering a sustainable alternative to traditional materials. Similarly, old t-shirts might find new life as cleaning rags or industrial wipes, proving the versatility and recyclability of cotton-based products.
Moreover, advancements in textile recycling technologies have opened up further possibilities for transforming old garments into new fibres. These regenerated fibres can then be woven into fresh textiles, effectively creating a closed-loop system in which material is perpetually recycled. This not only supports the sustainability goals of the fashion industry but also propels the entire sector towards a circular economy model. By continuously recycling fibres, the industry can significantly reduce its environmental footprint, moving away from a linear economic model (produce, use, dispose) to one that is regenerative by design.
These efforts are crucial for mitigating the impact of the fashion industry on the planet. They not only prevent usable materials from ending up in landfills but also reduce the demand for new raw materials, which often come with high environmental costs in terms of water use, pollution, and greenhouse gas emissions. Engaging in these recycling and repurposing practices, the fashion industry can take significant strides towards environmental sustainability and resource efficiency.
End-of-Life Collection Points
Establishing end-of-life collection points is crucial for enhancing the recycling and reuse of garments. These points can be strategically placed in retail stores, community centres, or integrated into municipal waste management systems, providing accessible locations for consumers to deposit their worn-out or no longer wanted clothing. The presence of these collection points helps ensure that garments are diverted from landfills and instead are directed to facilities where they can be accurately sorted and either recycled or repurposed.
For these collection points to be effective, widespread consumer awareness and active participation are essential. This can be achieved through targeted public education campaigns that inform consumers about the environmental benefits of recycling garments and the specific locations of collection points. Additionally, incentives such as discounts, store credits, or loyalty points can be offered to encourage and reward consumers for their recycling efforts.
These strategies not only facilitate the logistical aspects of collecting used garments but also foster a culture of recycling and sustainability among consumers. By making garment recycling easy and beneficial, fashion retailers and community organizations can significantly increase the volume of textiles diverted from waste streams and repurposed in environmentally beneficial ways. This proactive approach not only aids in reducing the environmental footprint of the fashion industry but also promotes a circular economy where products are kept in use for as long as possible.
Conclusion
Addressing the end of life for garments through material recovery, closed-loop systems, and effective collection points is essential for advancing sustainability in the fashion industry. These strategies not only help in reducing waste and the demand for new resources but also support economic models that are both sustainable and circular.
Relevant policies
EU Circular Economy Action Plan 1 & 2: The EU Circular Economy Action Plan 1, launched in 2015, set the foundation for transforming the European economy from a linear to a circular model. This initial plan focused on closing the loop of product lifecycles through greater recycling and re-use, benefiting both the environment and the economy. Key measures included actions to address waste management, product design, and fostering markets for secondary raw materials. The plan targeted various sectors, including plastics, food waste, and critical raw materials, aiming to boost competitiveness, create jobs, and generate sustainable growth. Building on the successes of the first, the EU Circular Economy Action Plan 2, introduced in 2020, aims to accelerate the transition with a more comprehensive and ambitious approach. This updated plan emphasises sustainable product design, reduction of waste, and empowerment of consumers. It includes measures to ensure that products placed on the EU market are designed to last longer, are easier to reuse, repair, and recycle, and incorporate as much recycled material as possible. Key sectors such as electronics, textiles, and construction are particularly targeted, with the goal of doubling the EU's circular material use rate by 2030 and significantly reducing the environmental footprint of EU consumption.
EU Strategy for Sustainable and Circular Textiles: The EU Strategy for Sustainable and Circular Textiles is an initiative aimed at transforming the textile industry to become more sustainable, circular, and resource-efficient. This strategy, part of the broader European Green Deal and Circular Economy Action Plan, focuses on reducing the environmental impact of textiles throughout their lifecycle, from production to end-of-life. It addresses key issues such as waste generation, resource consumption, and pollution associated with the textile sector.
Key components of the strategy include promoting the design of textiles for durability, repairability, and recyclability. It also emphasises the importance of using sustainable and recycled materials, improving waste management, and fostering innovative business models like reuse and recycling. The strategy aims to ensure that textile products placed on the EU market are long-lasting and recyclable, and produced in an environmentally friendly manner. By setting clear guidelines and supporting research and innovation, the EU Strategy for Sustainable and Circular Textiles seeks to drive the industry towards greater sustainability and circularity, benefiting both the environment and the economy.
EU Waste Framework Directive: The Waste Framework Directive (Directive 2008/98/EC) is a cornerstone of the EU's waste management policy, aiming to protect the environment and human health by emphasising waste prevention, recycling, and resource recovery. This directive sets the basic concepts and definitions related to waste management, including the "waste hierarchy" which prioritises waste prevention, followed by reuse, recycling, recovery, and disposal as the last resort. By promoting these principles, the directive seeks to reduce the environmental and economic impacts of waste.
Under the Waste Framework Directive, member states are required to take appropriate measures to minimise the generation of waste and enhance the efficiency of resource use. This includes the development of waste management plans and waste prevention programs. The directive also introduces the concept of "extended producer responsibility", holding producers accountable for the entire lifecycle of their products, including take-back, recycling, and final disposal. These measures are designed to foster innovation in waste management practices, drive circular economy initiatives, and move towards a more sustainable and resource-efficient Europe.
A 2023 Amendment to the Waste Framework Directive requires that by January 1, 2025, EU Member States must implement separate textile collection systems. To achieve this, significant investments are needed to enhance infrastructure and develop new technologies for collection, sorting, reuse, and recycling of textiles.
Related to this, the European Commission proposes introducing mandatory Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) schemes for textiles across all EU countries. EPR schemes will require producers to manage the entire lifecycle of their products, particularly at the end of their life. Producers will contribute financially based on how circular and environmentally friendly their products are, a system known as "eco-modulation." This proposal aims to drive research and innovation in textile recycling technologies, support social enterprises involved in textile management, and encourage producers to design more sustainable, circular products.
EU Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) Scheme for Textiles: The EU is advancing the proposal for an Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) scheme for textiles to ensure producers take responsibility for the entire lifecycle of their products, especially at the end of their life. As of August 2024, the proposal is in the legislative process and awaiting a Council decision.
EPR schemes are designed to reduce waste, promote recycling, and encourage more sustainable product designs. These schemes will be mandatory and harmonised across all EU Member States, aiming to create a unified approach to textile waste management. The EPR Scheme for Textiles targets producers of textiles, which include manufacturers, importers, distributors, and even online platforms that sell textile-related products directly to end-users. The scope is comprehensive, covering a wide variety of textile, textile-related, and footwear products. This includes everyday items such as clothing and footwear, as well as household textiles like curtains and bed linen. By including such a diverse array of products and producers, the scheme aims to ensure that all stages of the textile lifecycle are managed responsibly, promoting sustainability and reducing waste across the entire industry.
By requiring producers to contribute financially based on the circularity and environmental performance of their products—a concept known as "eco-modulation"—EPR schemes incentivise the creation of more sustainable textiles.
Several countries, including France, The Netherlands, Hungary and Latvia have already implemented EPR schemes for textiles with notable success. These existing schemes serve as models, demonstrating how EPR can drive improvements in collection, sorting, reuse, and recycling infrastructure. Other European countries, such as Italy and Sweden, already have plans in place, with others following soon.
The Ecodesign for Sustainable Products Regulation (ESPR): The Ecodesign for Sustainable Products Regulation (ESPR), which came into effect on 18 July 2024, forms the foundation of the Commission's strategy for promoting environmentally sustainable and circular products. It enables the setting of performance and information conditions – known as ‘ecodesign requirements’ – for almost all categories of physical goods. Use of products can significantly impact the environment, making consumption in the EU a substantial driver of climate change and pollution. The ESPR is a key element of the 2020 Circular Economy Action Plan. It aims to help the EU meet its environmental and climate goals, double its material use circularity rate, and achieve its energy efficiency targets by 2030.
EU Digital Product Passport (DPP): The proposed EU Digital Product Passports (DPPs), while awaiting final clarity and implementation decisions, represent a significant step forward in enhancing transparency and sustainability in the textiles and fashion industry. These passports, mandated under the Ecodesign for Sustainable Products Regulation (ESPR), are designed to provide detailed information about the entire lifecycle of textile products. By embedding digital tags or QR codes on garments, consumers, businesses, and regulators can access data on the materials used, manufacturing processes, and environmental impact.
This initiative aims to empower consumers to make more informed choices, foster sustainable practices among manufacturers, and facilitate efficient recycling and waste management processes. In the context of textiles and fashion, DPPs are particularly crucial due to the sector's considerable environmental footprint. The industry is known for high levels of resource consumption, waste production, and pollution. With DPPs, brands can demonstrate their commitment to sustainability by providing verifiable information about the sourcing and processing of materials. Moreover, these digital passports enable better traceability, ensuring that products comply with environmental standards and ethical practices. As a result, DPPs are expected to play a pivotal role in driving the EU towards its circular economy goals, reducing textile waste, and promoting a more sustainable fashion industry.
Relevant standards
ISO 14001 Environmental Management System: ISO 14001 is an international standard for environmental management systems, providing a framework for organisations to minimise their environmental impact, comply with regulations, and continuously improve their environmental performance.
ISO 26000 Social Responsibility: ISO 26000 provides guidance on social responsibility, including labour practices, human rights, and community engagement. While not specific to the textile industry, it is relevant for fashion brands seeking to address social issues in their supply chains.
ISO 5157 Textiles — Environmental aspects — Vocabulary: ISO 5157:2023 is a comprehensive standard established to ensure the quality, safety, and sustainability of products across various industries. This standard outlines the requirements for environmental management systems, focusing on reducing environmental impacts, enhancing resource efficiency, and promoting sustainable practices. By adhering to EN ISO 5157:2023, organisations can demonstrate their commitment to environmental responsibility and improve their operational performance. The standard provides a framework for identifying and controlling environmental aspects, setting objectives, and implementing policies that align with global sustainability goals. It also includes guidelines for continuous improvement and compliance with relevant legal and regulatory requirements. EN ISO 5157:2023 helps businesses minimise their environmental footprint and contribute to a greener economy.
ISO 59000 Family of Standards: The ISO 59000 family of standards focuses on establishing a comprehensive framework for implementing and managing circular economy practices and are located within ISO/TC323. These standards provide guidelines on key areas such as terminology, principles, action planning, performance evaluation, and continuous improvement. The primary aim is to harmonise the understanding and application of circular economy concepts, supporting organisations in achieving sustainable development goals. The first three standards were published in 2024 and are ISO 59004 (key terminology, framework and principles), ISO 59010 (guidance on business models and value networks related to circularity), and ISO 59020 (measurement and assessment of circularity).
CEN/TC473-Circular Economy: CEN/TC 473 is the European standardisation committee focused on developing standards for the circular economy. This committee aims to create a coherent framework that supports the transition to a circular economy by setting clear and practical guidelines for industries. The standards developed by CEN/TC 473 address various aspects of circularity, including product design, resource efficiency, waste management, and the use of secondary raw materials. The work of CEN/TC 473 is crucial for ensuring that products and processes across Europe are designed to minimise environmental impact and promote sustainability. By establishing standardised methodologies and criteria, the committee helps businesses align with EU policies on circular economy and environmental protection. These standards facilitate the adoption of best practices and innovative solutions that contribute to a more sustainable and resource-efficient economy.
WRAP (Waste and Resources Action Programme): WRAP (Waste and Resources Action Programme) offers a variety of standards and guides across different sectors including textiles to support sustainable practices in waste management and recycling. Key resources provided by WRAP include the Sustainable Clothing Guide. This guide helps manufacturers and retailers increase the durability and quality of clothing through best practices in design, production, and selling, aiming to extend the lifecycle of garments and reduce waste.
GRS and RCS - Textile Exchange The Global Recycle Standard (GRS) and The Recycled Claim Standard (RCS) are international, voluntary standards that sets requirements for third-party certification of recycled content, chain of custody, social and environmental practices, and chemical restrictions. The GRS and RCS are intended to meet the needs of companies looking to verify the recycled content of their products (both finished and intermediate) and to verify responsible social, environmental, and chemical practices in their production.
The GRS standard applies to the full supply chain and addresses traceability, environmental principles, social requirements, and labelling. By promoting traceability within the supply chain, GRS ensures that claims concerning a product’s recycled content are accurate and verified. The standard also emphasises the importance of good working conditions and the minimisation of harmful environmental and chemical impacts.
The Recycled Claim Standard (RCS) is a standard that verifies the recycled content of a product. It tracks the recycled raw materials through the supply chain using a "chain of custody" model, which provides companies with a tool to verify that the materials they use are truly recycled and sustainably processed. The RCS is used globally by manufacturers to ensure that their products meet consistent and verifiable recycled content claims, providing transparency and assurance to consumers about the product's environmental impact.
For those involved in manufacturing or branding materials and products, understanding and potentially obtaining GRS and RCS certification can significantly enhance the sustainability credentials of their offerings. For more detailed information visit the website of Textile Exchange.
More information
British Retail Confederation - Voluntary Guideline on Second-hand and Preloved Items: The British Retail Consortium (BRC) has developed a set of voluntary guidelines focused on second-hand and preloved items. These guidelines are designed to encourage retailers to engage more with the circular economy by facilitating the resale and reuse of goods. This initiative not only helps reduce waste but also promotes sustainable consumer practices by providing clear standards for managing pre-owned goods. By following these guidelines, retailers can ensure that items are processed, presented, and sold in a way that maintains quality and safety standards, thereby building consumer trust in second-hand markets. The guidelines also aim to standardise practices across the industry, creating a more reliable and accessible market for preloved items, which in turn can help in reducing the environmental impact associated with new item production and disposal. Link here .
Global Fashion Agenda: This organisation provides a Circular Fashion System Commitment, which fashion retailers can sign up for to pledge specific actions toward increased circularity. Actions include designing for durability, increasing the volume of used garments collected, and integrating recycled materials into new products.
The Ellen MacArthur Foundation: The Foundation offers specific guidance for fashion retailers to transition towards circular business models. This includes designing for longevity, encouraging recycling and reuse, and considering the full lifecycle impacts of garments. These guidelines help retailers rethink how goods are designed, used, and reused to create a more sustainable business model.
The Circular Transition Indicators (CTI) framework: The CTI framework is an innovative tool designed to guide businesses in assessing and improving their circularity. This framework, as outlined in the white paper marking the first milestone of the CTI Fashion Initiative, serves as a comprehensive metric system for organisations aiming to transition towards more sustainable, circular business models. The CTI framework helps companies to measure and quantify their circular performance across various operational aspects, including material usage, waste management, and lifecycle extension. By providing clear indicators and benchmarks, the CTI framework supports businesses in the fashion industry to identify areas for improvement, make informed decisions about resource utilisation, and track their progress in achieving circular economy objectives. This initiative is crucial for companies looking to reduce their environmental impact and promote sustainability in an increasingly eco-conscious market.